BONEFISH GRILL
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★⭑
District: Central Omaha (Regency)
Seafood & Steaks
Perfect For: Lunch; Date Night; Casual Dining; Happy Hour; Drinks
Standout Dishes: Bang Bang Shrimp; Blackened Baja Fish Tacos
As you take your seat at Bonefish Grill, take a look around the restaurant, particularly on a busy night. On most of, if not all tables, you’ll see a familiar plate: the famed Bang Bang Shrimp.
This crispy crustaceans have reached cult status at Bonefish, and for good reason. The shrimp are fried in a light batter, which keeps the crunchy exterior from getting greasy or heavy. That texture contrasts well with the tender meat of the shrimp, and the morsels are tossed in a creamy sauce that brings both sweet and heat, though definitely more of the former.
For most diners, the thought of dining at Bonefish and not ordering at least one plate of Bang Bang Shrimp is heresy. Starting the meal with this appetizer isn’t even a thought.
The shrimp have earned their sterling reputation; they’re as good as any appetizer you’ll find at a national chain. But if a restaurant is defined by an appetizer, does that say something about the rest of the menu?
The way you answer that question likely defines how you feel about Bonefish. If you’re looking for a casual place to grab some drinks and appetizers with friends, this is right up your alley. But if you’re seeking a restaurant with elite seafood, Omaha has better options.
This isn’t to say the fish at Bonefish is subpar by any means. It’s generally cooked well, and the menu offers plenty of variety. But the seafood lacks the brilliant freshness and proper seasoning you’ll encounter at other Omaha establishments.
The menu consists of more than just seafood. You’ll find a variety of dishes with steak, chicken, pork chops, and pasta, giving fish-averse diners some options. But let’s be honest: if you’re going to a restaurant that has the word “fish” in its name, you’re probably ordering something that swims.
Bonefish cooks its fish on a wood-fired grill, which adds a touch of smokiness and visually appealing grill marks. When the plates hit the table, there is a certain wow factor that has you heavily anticipating your first bite.
Perhaps it’s that anticipation that hurts Bonefish, because the flavor doesn’t match the visual. The restaurant’s menu notes that the fish are lightly seasoned, which is perfectly fine. Fresh salmon, mahi mahi, and scallops all taste beautiful on their own and need little additional seasoning; a good cook and a touch of salt and they’re good to go.
I can’t speak on where or how Bonefish sources its catches, but they lack the fresh pop that comes from wild-caught seafood. The cooking is proper, as the Atlantic Salmon is tender and flaky, the Chilean Sea Bass is smooth and buttery, and the Tilapia is slightly firm. When combined with one of the chef-inspired signature sauces or salsas, these fish find some life, and the portion sizes are plenty generous.
There are good dishes here. The fish just need more fresh flavor or a bit more seasoning (I lean more toward the former than the latter).
For example, the cod in the Blackened Baja Fish Tacos is better when placed in a shell with other ingredients than it is on its own. The blackening seasoning adds more salt and heat than you’ll find on most fish dishes, and the dish receives acidity and fat from lime crema and sweet mango salsa.
The sides are fine but not extraordinary. The Bacon Mac & Cheese is creamy and doesn’t lack for cheese, but it’s very heavy and rich for a side dish. The Garlic Whipped Potatoes are airy but lack any real garlic flavor, and the Steamed Asparagus (a premium side that adds a $3 upcharge) lacks seasoning.
The overall vibe at Bonefish is hip and fun, and the servers are attentive and friendly. There are plenty of interesting things to peruse on the extensive menu, and the seafood is cooked well.
But fish are defined by that brilliant “aha” of fresh flavor, and I haven’t found that in Bonefish’s dishes. For serious seafood, I’d recommend some other local Omaha spots. But for a few drinks and an awesome appetizer, Bonefish is a fine option.