GREEK ISLANDS
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★
District: Midtown
Authentic Greek cuisine
Perfect For: Lunch; Casual Dining; Takeout
Standout Dishes: Gyro; Spanakopita; Dolmathes
Every time you walk in the doors at Greek Islands, you know what to expect.
The atmosphere will be bright and warm. The portions will be large. The tzatziki will pack a standout punch of dill. And co-owner George Sgourakis will be visible back in the open kitchen.
Whatever the restaurant lacks in pop and pizzazz, it more than makes up for in consistency and heart, and that’s why it’s been an Omaha institution and the favorite Greek restaurant of many Omahans for almost 40 years.
Brothers and co-owners George and Bill Sgourakis were born in Greece and immigrated to Omaha in 1966 before opening Greek Islands in 1983. The restaurant has obviously gone through changes in the nearly four decades since, but consistent, high-quality food similar to what one would find in Greece has remained at Greek Islands’ core.
That starts with the flagship menu item, the Gyro. A combination of meat and lamb meat is roasted on a vertical spit in the kitchen, in plain view of nearly every seat of the restaurant. Sliced to order, the meat exudes notes of rosemary, oregano, and thyme. While it’s not the most flavorful gyro meat you’ll find in Omaha, it doesn’t need to be. That’s because the aforementioned tzatziki plays the leading role on this sandwich.
If the meat were overly seasoned, it might clash with the creamy condiment. Instead, it also this dill-forward sauce to provide the gyro’s dominant flavor, injecting each bite with tang and a bright herbaceous taste.
The pita bread is a bit thick and dry. It does a great job of holding up to the mountain of meat Greek Islands heaps on top of it—I’d guess 3/4 of a pound, easy—but doesn’t add much outside of scaffolding. All in all, how you feel about this gyro will come down to your feelings on the tzatziki.
That same sauce is present on the restaurant’s souvlaki dishes, only now it’s given more interesting meats to play with.
Take, for instance, the Pork Souvlaki. Marinated in olive oil, lemon, and spices, these generous chunks of pig achieve a level of tender juiciness that the gyro meat does not. The lemon adds a tangy note, and notes of onion, garlic, and oregano serve up the familiar Greek flavors. The skewers are also charbroiled, adding a welcome grilled taste.
Oddly enough, the pita on the souvlaki dishes is quite different than the gyro pita. Coated with olive oil and toasted on the grill, the pita is moist and has a pleasant oily sheen. However, it falls apart more easily and makes the souvlaki dishes a fork-and-knife affair. That’s not a problem, of course, and the enhanced flavors make up for the lack of handheld eating ability.
While most Omahans might most closely associate Greek food with sandwiches and wraps, Greek Islands does its strongest work with traditional Greek dishes.
The Spanakopita is a must-try appetizer. Simply described, it’s a savory spinach pie, but the Greek Islands version capitalizes on the reasons this dish is beloved. The phyllo dough is buttery and crispy, giving each bite fat and texture. Herby spinach and salty feta cheese fill in between the layers of dough, creating a crunchy, savory version of lasagna that simply must be experienced.
The Dolmathes are similarly craveable. Consisting of rolled grave vine leaves stuffed with ground beef and rice, this dish is rolled extremely well and holds together. The lemon sauce, thanks to the addition of eggs, is creamier and thicker than other versions I’ve encountered, but this isn’t a bad thing. The sauce’s powerful tangy zing perfectly accents the savory beef and creates a perfect appetizer or side dish.
Ultimately, I’d prefer some of the flavors, particularly those in the gyro, to be more powerful at Greek Islands. But I also appreciate and respect the consistency this restaurant provides. I know the tzatziki is going to be punchy and delicious. The spanakopita will be flaky and buttery. The lemon sauce on the dolmathes will be rich and hearty.
And I’ll leave Greek Islands very full, satisfied, and lamenting the fact that I don’t live in Greece.