MEXITLI RESTAURANT

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑

Authentic Mexican Cuisine

Standout Dishes: Birria Taco; Enchiladas; Steak Taco; Hot Dog

Alberto Cardenas established his sterling reputation for Mexican food with Mexitli Food Truck, a humble yellow cart that delivers incredible flavors but is easy to miss. You had to know about Mexitli; you probably weren’t ever going to just happen upon it.

Which is why it was so exciting when the truck expanded to a brick and mortar, Mexitli Restaurant. Now not only would Alberto’s food be easier to find, but he could serve it in a cozy environment not dependent on weather.

But would that awesome food translate? Would Alberto be able to create the same magical plates at a higher volume? A few is enough to answer both questions with a resounding “yes.”

Located off 16th and Harney in downtown Omaha, Mexitli is welcoming and cozy. The plate glass windows supply plenty of light, and the decor is bright and colorful. The flashy decorations, colorful blankets, and gorgeous neon sign suggest a party could break out at any time.

But even with the improved environment, it’s still the food that shines brightest at Mexitli. Alberto’s homemade tortillas are a delight, and each protein leaps forward with bright, varied tastes.

It all starts with Mexitli’s tortillas, which are a vibrant bright red. Alberto mixes beet juice in with corn to form these firm, chewy discs. The secret ingredient doesn’t affect the flavor, but it gives the tortillas a visually-arresting trait that sets them apart from any in Omaha. And while soft, they’re also remarkably sturdy—which is important, because they’re loaded with meat.

Mexitli offers a number of different proteins of which to fill the tacos, and the best is arguably the Steak Taco. Each hunk releases a nice buttery-ness once bit into, and the grilling adds a healthy amount of char. The cuts of meat could be more consistent, but it’s a minor complaint.

The steak goes to another level in the Taco Macho, as the tender beef is joined by melted cheese, grilled jalapenos, and creamy beans for an excellent taco. The Chorizo Taco is a great choice as well, with peppery, well-season pieces of pork providing some good heat.

If there’s a miss with the tacos, the veggie-forward options are a bit lacking. It’s exciting to see Huitlacoche, a corn fungus commonly used in traditional Mexican food but is very hard to find in Omaha, on the menu. It has a meaty mushroom texture but almost no flavor; just a slight earthiness. The Squash Blossom Taco, too, doesn’t pack much of a punch.

And while the tacos, tortas, and quesadillas that were featured on the food truck are still present, the brick and mortar has allowed him to add some new items. That starts with the Hot Dog, a common street food in Mexico. The frank itself is excellent, with a solid snap on its casing and a literal eruption of juice upon each bite. That delicious dog is wrapped in crispy bacon and slathered in mustard, ketchup, jalapenos, and tomatoes. It’s a beast to simply get your mouth around, but the reward for doing so is spectacular.

There’s also the Birria Taco, which features meat as flavorful as you’ll find. Unlike some other versions of this dish, Mexitli’s isn’t drowned in cheese, allowing the rich, concentrated consommé and the tender, savory beef to be the stars that they are.

The Enchiladas features five handmade tortillas that are stuffed with juicy shredded chicken and cheese, then cooked in a wonderfully earthy, slightly spicy red enchilada sauce. Large as the portion was, I could’ve eaten 3 plates of these.

The Sope is another strong addition. Mexitli forms a masa bowl and deep fries it, making a crispy, flakey receptacle for whatever protein or vegetable you choose. A liberal spattering of cotija cheese adds an addictively salty flavor.

Mexitli Restaurant also owns the bay next door, La Traga-zona, which serves as the dessert hub/bar for the restaurant. It’s well known for sweet crepes and ice cream, but the sweet, crispy waffle with fresh fruit and a healthy scoop of strawberry ice cream, might be the best thing on the menu.

Mexitli Restaurant manages to take everything that was great about the food truck and transfer it to a comfortable brick and mortar setting. It’s not the most elegant restaurant by any means, but it offers the same outstanding food as the truck with table service, an expanded menu, and no fear of weather.

Bottom line: there are few Omaha restaurants that offer the quality Mexican food Mexitli does, and the walls, roof, and dedicated kitchen only add to the excellence of the experience.