LAZY BUFFALO BBQ

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑

Wood-Smoked BBQ

Standout Dishes: Blackstone Bologna; Gumbo; The Gobbler; Sausage Boat

Lazy Buffalo BBQ is undoubtedly a BBQ joint, but it’s not quite like what you’d expect. Owners Brady Hess and Evan Keelan, who developed a love for smoking in the backyard and turned it into a business, are doing things their way.

Brisket and burnt ends won’t be found on this menu, while turkey and bologna play leading roles. You can’t order meat by the pound or get a side of cornbread, but you can get deviled eggs topped with bacon jam, Doritos, or pulled rib meat.

The menu is a smorgasbord of homey, comfort food combined with wood-fired BBQ, and the result is a creative addition to Omaha’s BBQ scene.

Lazy Buffalo is located in the heart of the Blackstone district, just east of 40th and Farnam. It’s a tiny hallway of a restaurant that actually has no seating itself; fortunately, it’s attached to Scriptown Brewing and has a unique relationship with its neighbor. You can either order food at the bar and have it delivered or order from Lazy Buffalo’s counter and mosey over to Scriptown to enjoy your feast.

Lazy Buffalo’s menu is made up of BIGS (sandwiches and tacos) and SMALLS (sides dishes, ribs, and sausage). There are several sides, too, as well as the restaurant’s 3 housemade sauces.

The star of the menu is without a doubt the Ribs, which I’ll put up against just about any in Omaha. Each order comes with four meaty bones drizzled in Lazy Buffalo’s signature Alabama White sauce. The ribs have a nice smoky essence without being overwhelmed by it, and Lazy Buffalo’s pepper-forward rub creates an amazing bark. The meat remains firmly on the bone, only separating after a slight tug from the teeth, and the Alabama white sauce adds a zesty zing that separates it from a traditional sweet sauce.

The main characters are the sandwiches, the most popular of which is the Alan Earl. Named after Brady’s father, this sandwich is a skyscraper with enough pulled pork to fill a wheelbarrow. The pork has a good amount of smoke flavor, and it’s very tender. It pairs well with the acidic pickles and the crunchy, salty fried onions, and the brioche bun brings a buttery note. The sandwich eats a bit dry; adding a touch more of the Lazy BBQ sauce adds the moisture and sweetness to help round it out.

Any harrowing memories of eating bologna sandwiches as a kid are rectified by the Blackstone Bologna, which presents the mystery meat in an evolved form. Smoked, it takes on a sweet, spicy flavor combo, and the crispy, toasted edges make for excellent bites.

The meat is complemented by a salty, creamy smoked mortadella deviled egg spread, pepperjack, tomato, and bright pops of dill. It’s a nod to the famous whimsy of Turkey and the Wolf, and it does the beloved New Orleans restaurant justice.

The Gobbler gets the most out of another meat that often goes wrong: turkey. A protein that’s often bland and dry, the turkey at Lazy Buffalo is anything but. Moist and rich, this poultry has crisp edges and makes an excellent pair with the sweetness of the hot honey cream cheese.

You can’t order brisket, pulled pork, or other meats by the pound at Lazy Buffalo BBQ, but you can get “boats” of some ribs and sausage. These paper containers have enough meat to satiate an appetite or serve as a shareable plate amongst friends.

The Sausage Boat contains a good 1/2 pound of slices of peppery, fatty pork that’s delicious eaten alone or inserted into your sandwich to add extra smoked goodness. The accompanying bacon jam is a bit watery, but the flavor is a sweet, salty bomb of bacon-y deliciousness.

Most Cajun/Southern spots in Omaha would kill to serve Gumbo this good. The rich, hearty flavor of the roux is joined by that spicy, salty sausage and tender okra, as well as a bed of fluffy rice.

The sides can often be an afterthought at BBQ restaurants, but that’s not the case at Lazy Buffalo. The fillings in the Deviled Eggs change all the time based on what the chefs are feeling, but the delicious base remains the same. The eggs are soft stuffed with a tangy, creamy filling. On one visit, our eggs were topped with that wonderful smoked sausage, crispy fried onions, and a sprig of dill for an interesting contrast of flavors and textures. On my next visit, the eggs featured blackened shrimp, soy marinated egg whites, and a wasabi egg filling for a creative play on a sushi roll.

The Dill Potato Salad is a great take on the side, even for those who aren’t usually a fan (hand raised). Lazy Buffalo’s version isn’t heavy on the mayo; the condiment is present enough to add a creamy consistency, but the dish is mostly comprised of hearty chunks of potato. The spuds had good tang, and the dill added a refreshing hit of lemony, herbaceous flavor.

Lazy Buffalo BBQ also frequently runs specials, such as a Pimento Pork Grilled Cheese and a sandwich with smoked honey BBQ pulled chicken, crispy sopressata, and spicy pickles. The young restaurant, opened in April of 2024, is still figuring out exactly what it wants to be and adjusting on the go.

But I think this eatery is excellent as it is and, while I always encourage restaurants in their efforts to improve and evolve, I applaud Lazy Buffalo for being exactly what it is. It’s quirky, yes. You can’t eat in the restaurant itself. You can’t order burnt ends or brisket.

But you can have a damn good meal filled with tremendous smoked meats. And isn’t that what BBQ is all about?