SHAHEEN'S AFGHAN CUISINE
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑
District: Benson
Authentic Afghan Cuisine
Perfect For: Lunch; Casual Dining; Vegan Options
Standout Dishes: Kulabi Pulao; Mantu; Lamb Karai
When Shahen Shah moved his family from Kabul, Afghanistan, to Omaha in 2015, he had no professional restaurant experience. His resume included roles as an interpreter, carpenter, and gas station worker, but “chef” had never graced his business card.
But Shahen excelled as a home cook, consistently wowing family and friends with his amazing family meals. And the family, disappointed to discover there was no Afghan cuisine in Omaha, joked that he should open a restaurant.
Over time, the joke morphed into a serious conversation. And then, in 2020, Shaheen’s Afghan Cuisine became a reality.
Shahen opened a restaurant/market combo off 120th & Pacific just as the pandemic kicked off. Despite the unfortunate early conditions, Omahans enjoyed their first exposure to Afghan cuisine so much that the restaurant was able to move to a larger location in March of 2023. Shahan Supermarket still sells meats, unique spices, and Afghan bread in its original location, but the restaurant now resides on the main strip in Benson, just off 61st & Maple.
As a trade crossroads between Asia, India, the Mediterranean basin, and eastern Africa, Afghan food draws inspiration from different cuisines and uses bold spaces to make something completely its own. Most dishes combine a protein, especially lamb, mutton, and chicken, with rice or an airy, crusty bread (Afghan naan).
The menu at Shaheen’s reflects these traditions, as most involve cuts of lamb or kabobs with a choice of basmati rice or bread. Each dish is heavily spiced, yet they’re not spicy. Rather, they use a combination of cumin, coriander, cardamom, turmeric, and other spices to create flavor combinations that are entirely new to the Omaha palate.
The best example is Afghan’s national dish, Kabuli Pulao. The centerpiece is an enormous lamb shank with meat so tender that it pulls away from the bone at the slightest suggestion of your fork. It’s rich and deeply savory, and the tender basmati rice is cooked down in the lamb juices, further emphasizing its flavor. The dish would eat heavy if not for raisins and caramelized carrots that add a pleasant underlying sweetness and pull this dish to all corners of the flavor spectrum.
Second in popularity is the Mantu, Afghanistan’s version of the dumpling. These tender pockets are steamed, not fried, giving them a chewy outer shell that’s filled with hearty, robust ground beef. But what sends the dish over the top is tangy, creamy yogurt that’s drizzled over the delightful dumplings.
To call the meat in the Lamb Karai “tender” would be an insult to the word; it’s practically begging to fall off the bone. Cooked in a tomato gravy with aromatic spices, it’s bold and deeply savory with just the right amount of fat. And the thick, chewy hunks of Afghan naan allow you to sop up every last drop of the delicious curry.
To get a tour through Shahen’s proteins, go with the Mix Combo, which offers lamb, chicken, and shabi kabobs with floral, nutty basmati rice. The Shabi Kabob stands out, as the ground lamb achieves a meatball-like consistency with intense, unique spices. The Chicken Kabob is moist and smoky, and though the Lamb Kabob is a bit tougher than its counterparts, the addition of sumac complements the rich meat with a tangy, citrusy flavor.
The fluffy bismati rice is the perfect complement to the meats, giving a starchy counterpart to the proteins. The Afghan Bread is rather bland on its own, but it’s great for soaking up curries, sauces, and leftover meat juices. The best side dish might be the Side Salad, with crispy lettuce, fresh tomatoes, and a creamy, zippy dressing.
The portion sizes are quite large at Shaheen’s, but if you’re able, save room for dessert. The Baghlawa, bucks the downfall that so many versions of this treat have: with sugar and honey everywhere in the dish, they’re cloyingly sweet.
Shaheen’s version has a good amount of sugar, but it’s balanced by the buttery, flaky layers of phyllo dough, which give it a crispy consistency and help balance the sweetness. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still a rich, sweet finish to the meal, but it won’t make you feel like you need to schedule a dentist appointment immediately after.
If you’re at all intimidated by the variety of dishes (most of which are unfamiliar to the Omaha palate), have no fear. The team at Shaheen’s can expertly explain each dish and make recommendations based on your preferences.
The restaurant is large and inviting, and it features three private dining areas where large groups can sit on the floor around a shallow table much as families do in Afghanistan. Gathering together for dinner is a significant part of Afghan culture, and Shaheen’s seeks to honor that.
Flavored teas are another important part of Afghan tradition, and they’re well-represented on Shaheen’s menu. The Milk Tea is served warm, making for a creamy, rich drink with a good deal of sweetness. The Green Tea and Black Tea are a bit more balanced, offering light and aromatic flavor profiles and a subtle, pleasant warming experience.
For all the varied cuisine Omaha has to offer, Shaheen’s is the only spot to get authentic Afghan food. The unique spices, perfectly cooked meats, and delicious desserts offer a dining experience unlike any other in the city, and one that’s absolutely worth checking out.