CUMBIA

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑

Colombian & Latin tapas

Perfect For: Casual Dining; Drinks; Date Night

Standout Dishes: Patacones & Ropa Vieja; Picanha Tacos; Anticuchos de Pollo; Empanadas de Queso

A visit to Cumbia differs from any other Omaha restaurant or bar for a number of reasons. First, the atmosphere is downright stunning, with an ambience that practically comes alive and springs off the walls.

Cumbia also specializes in Colombian food, a beautiful cuisine that doesn’t get much shine in Omaha.

But maybe the most unique part of a Cumbia experience is the tapas-style service. You won’t find grandiose entrees at this snazzy downtown Omaha hangout; Cumbia serves small plates and bites that are meant to be shared amongst friends and family, creating a communal dining experience few in Omaha can rival.

Everything about this restaurant asks you to slow down. Let the cares of the outdoor world melt away into the festive plants hanging from the walls and ceiling. Forget your worries as you laugh and imbibe with loved ones. And lose yourself in the beautiful flavors of Colombian cuisine.

Located near the corner of 16th & Harney, Cumbia’s humble exterior gives little hints of the explosion of light, color, and life that’s waiting within. The bright atmosphere, abundance of greenery, and giant illuminated wall of spirits are a stark contrast to the gray of downtown Omaha’s concrete blandness. Stepping inside these doors is almost a shock to the system; you need a moment to collect yourself and try to take all the ambience in.

Once you’ve gotten your bearings, it’s time to dive into Cumbia’s extensive drink menu. You’ll find all the classics—palomas, old fashioneds, mojitos, and the like—at Cumbia, but the team has put a lot of effort into creating craft cocktails. I’d start with the seasonal cocktail menu, which is intended to highlight the freshest ingredients of each season.

The Mazorca Old Fashioned is a perfect example. Mazorca refers to a cob of corn, and the fresh, sweetness of maize plays beautifully with the smooth, rich profile of the classic Old Fashioned. It’s a drink that feels familiar, but with a noticeable—and welcome—twist.

The food menu also changes a few times each year in an effort to highlight the ingredients freshest that season. The plates here are smaller than you’ll get at the standard Omaha restaurant, and most Omahans might relate them closely to appetizers. But they’re meant to be shared, so you can order many of them with a group and get a more full experience of Colombian cuisine.

For all the things Cumbia does well, beef is near the top of the list. The steak in the Patacones & Ropa Vieja is cooked down in a tomato-based sauce, giving the shredded meat an underlying sweetness. The meat is tender but has good chew, and using patacones (smashed, fried plantains) as a base makes the dish a fun play on a tostada.

The Picanha Tacos might highlight this particular cut of beef as well as any plate in Omaha. Coming from the rump of the cow, picanha is rich and beefy. Cumbia’s version is buttery and savory, as the fat from the cap melts down into every pore of the meat. Stuffed inside tender tortillas with a vibrant chimichurri, this is a plate of food you’ll fight your friends over.

The beef also appears in the empanadas, one of Cumbia’s specialties. The crispy cornmeal crust has an underlying sweetness and a crispy exterior, making it a great option whichever filling you opt for. The Empanadas de Carne are stuffed with a savory lomo soltado, similar in texture and flavor to the ropa vieja. Cumbia also serves a dessert play on the dish with its Empanadas de Queso, loading the turnovers with gooey, rich cheese and serving them with a tart strawberry jam. Both could use a bit more filling, but they’re both tasty.

Don’t think that Cumbia is a one-trick pony when it comes to protein, though. The beef may be the star, but the Antichuchos de Pollo shows that these cooks can work wonders with poultry, too.

These chunks of chicken served on skewers are tender and juicy with caramelized outsides that add a nice smoky flavor and a grilled consistency. The marination injects each bite with a sweet, spicy, tangy flavor that’s only enhanced by the zestiness of the chimichurri.

But the best part of the plate might be the potatoes, which are fried to a golden crispy consistency yet still maintain their creamy insides. They’re better than most french fries you’ll find in Omaha.

Fish are also a significant part of Colombian cuisine, and Cumbia more than does them justice. Many of the dishes offer raw or marinated seafood that’s bright, citrusy, and bursting with flavor.

The best of the bunch is the Causita Limena, a combination of ceviche and mashed potatoes. The base is a mound of thick, chunky mashed potatoes (almost a potato salad consistency, but without the mayo). It’s infused with lemon, giving it a nice citrusy tang. Fresh chunks of white fish (marinated in lime juice) sit atop with guacamole and pickled red onions. But the kicker is the garlic aioli drizzled all over the plate.

The Peruvian Ceviche features white fish cooked in a lime juice marinade, giving it a refreshing, clean flavor profile and a bright finish. The Cartagena Shrimp Cocktail is a bit heavier, as tender shrimp are served in a creamy, tangy sauce with pickled onions and cilantro. Both dishes utilize fried plantains as chips to great effect.

Everything at Cumbia, from the service style to the atmosphere and chipper ambience, is a breath of fresh air for the Omaha food scene. But on top of it all are the bright, welcoming flavors of Colombian food, something that Omaha has sorely missed for a long while. Short of booking a trip to booking a trip to South America, you won’t get closer to the wonders of Colombian cuisine than you will at Cumbia.