STAR INDIAN CUISINE

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑

District: Millard

Indian restaurant w/ dishes from both North & South India

Standout Dishes: Potato Naan; Tandoori Chicken

There’s nothing name with the name of Star Indian Cuisine. But if the restaurant ever for any reason wanted to rebrand, “Naan Palace” would be a suitable replacement.

The bread at this Omaha Indian restaurant is the dictionary definition of what naan is supposed to be: light, fluffy, and with that slight chewy consistency. And when you consider Star Indian Cuisine has 10 different naan options, it’s obvious they dedicate a lot of time and energy to this carb-y offering.

To be clear, it’s not all about the naan at Star. The husband-wife team behind this Millard restaurant puts forth a unique menu with dishes from both North and South India (most Indian restaurants focus on one region). From the North come butter chicken, naan, and creamy curries that are comforting and rich, the type of stick-to-your-ribs plates that warm you up from the inside.

And on the South Indian side are more rice-based dishes that are a bit lighter and feature curry leaves, tamarind, and chiles; think biryanis and dosa. The menu definitely leans more Northern, as this is what most guests at Indian restaurants expect, but Star gives a noble nod to the spicier Southern dishes as well.

But the naan is the star of the show, as the bread is soft and pillowy with an airy crumb. The flavor is the bread itself is rather mild, allowing the inclusions of toppings to accent it.

The best of the bunch is the Potato Naan (featured in the header photo). This naan essentially has a creamy, starchy layer between two levels of pillowy bread. Imagine a thin schmear of mashed potatoes inside naan.

Among the other options are Butter Naan, Kashmiri Naan, and Onion Naan. The Chili Garlic Naan has a pleasant level of heat and enough aromatic garlic to keep vampires at bay for days. The Cheese Naan isn’t quite as flavorful and could use a bit more of the stretchy, gooey mozzarella, but it’s a solid option. Each order comes with two elephant ears of bread, and it’s enhanced even more when you dunk it in the bright, herbal mint chutney or the sweet, stick tamarind sauce.

Another excellent starter is the Samosas. The dough is layered, flaky, and fried to a crispy golden brown. There’s a meat version with chicken, but I prefer the vegetarian option, as the filling of potatoes and peas makes this somewhat reminiscent of pot pie.

Each meal starts with complimentary Pappadum, a crispy, mild cracker that breaks off easily and has a slightly nutty flavor. It’s mean to be crunched up over your meal or dunked in the aforementioned sauces.

There are enough dishes on the main menu to make one’s head spin. Between the tandoori grilled dishes, various curries, seafood, biryani, Indian noodles, and fried rice platters, making a decision is daunting exercise. The good news is, from my visits at least, you can expect a great dish regardless of what you order.

That’s certainly true of the Tandoori Chicken, a sizzling platter of three thighs and three legs that ensures you don’t go home hungry. The poultry has a brilliant, eye-catching bright red hue, which comes from a combination of kashmiri chili powder and turmeric. The legs are a bit dry, but the thighs are moist and rich. The sauce adds heat and smoky essence, which pairs well with the sweetness of the sauteed vegetables.

Biryani is a layered dish of protein and rice that is slow-cooked over many hours, producing a savory, deeply earthy flavor. The basmati rice has a bit of bite, and the crustaceans in the Shrimp Biryani are plump and juicy.

Star’s curry roster brings a strong game as well. The Lamb Vindaloo is tangy and bold with that deep chili heat. The lamb is tender, but the dominant flavor is the bright red sauce. The Chicken Korma is on the creamier, sweeter side, as its richness and mild spices make it a perfect comfort food. The chicken is cooked well.

All dishes are ordered at Mild, Medium, Hot, or Extra Hot levels, though I’ve found this to be a bit inconsistent. As a lover of spicy food, I ordered extra hot on one meal and was disappointed by the lack of flames. On another visit, I ordered hot and was sucking for breath every few bites. Maybe it depends on the dish you order.

The dining room is bright and pleasant, with warm lighting and vibrant colors. The hospitality is rather melancholy; the service is able to knowledgeably answer any question about the menu, but they aren’t always outwardly warm.

But that’s not a problem at Star, because the flavors are such a knock-out they’re all you’re left thinking about. With such a deep menu, there’s always something new to try, and from my experiences, none will leave you disappointed.

Just don’t forgo an order of naan. That might be the only mistake you can make at Star.