V. MERTZ

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★★

Upscale Dining with Tasting Menu

Perfect For: Date Night; Upscale Dining; Drinks

Standout Dishes: Tasting Menu; Roasted Duck Breast; Bread Service

If you’re looking for a dining experience that temporarily transports you out of Omaha, V. Mertz might just be your spot.

On our inaugural visit, my wife and I didn’t feel like we were dining in an Omaha restaurant. We both remarked that we felt more as we did on our honeymoon, and while V. Mertz might not be located on a Jamaican beach, it has transportive powers that elevate the dining experience.

Part of this feeling is due to the restaurant’s location. Tucked into the bottom level of the passageway in the Old Market, V. Mertz temporarily blocks out reminders of the outside world and creates an intimate experience. Nestled into this nook of brick walls and dim lighting, you encounter a near-perfect dining event, from the eye-opening cuisine to the friendliness of the staff and the spot-on recommendations of the sommeliers.

A meal here doesn’t just feel like dinner. It’s something special.

At V. Mertz, you’ll experience a litany of flavors, textures, and techniques in masterful and surprising dishes. One of the restaurant’s strongest traits is its ability to subvert diner expectations; you read the menu and think you know what to expect, but when the dish arrives and you dig in, you find yourself simultaneously astonished and thrilled.

The menu constantly changing based on what ingredients are fresh and what genius ideas enter their heads. They can take a humble ingredient like a macadamia nut and transform it into a creamy, salty mousse that pairs perfectly with an acidic poached pear and pickled grapes. They can pair the earthy savoriness of morel mushrooms with the sweetness of English peas and a salty, nutty parmesan brodo.

An excellent example is the Roasted Duck Breast. The duck is cooked perfectly, as the the fat is rendered beautifully to give every bite of the bird a savory richness. The muhammara (a Middle Eastern dip) complements the rich duck with a smoky, sweet, tangy edge, and the crispy potato rosti is carb-y perfection.

Masterful as V. Mertz is in transforming ingredients, it does just as well elevating already delicious elements. Striped bass is a flaky, buttery fish, but V. Mertz provides texture contrast by crisping the skin and serving it with fingerling potatoes. A delectably salty potato broth ties every together.

The best example of this elevation is the Wagyu Tenderloin from Morgan Farms. This medallion of beef is already so well-marbled and tender, most home cooks could turn it into a delicious dish. But put that tenderloin in V. Mertz’s hands, and it becomes the best steak I’ve ever tasted. Each bite exudes a burst of buttery sweetness, and the minimal preparation allows the meat itself to shine. The beef is tremendous on its own, but you’ll find yourself tempted to return again and again to the provided peppercorn dipping sauce, a creamy, peppery concoction that pairs perfectly with the hearty steak.

V. Mertz isn’t an Italian restaurant, but it serves better pasta than most Italian joints in Omaha. The noodles are handmade, giving them a fresh, delicate taste and a bouncy consistency. From long, flowing strands of pappardelle, tenderly filled tortellini, or thick bucatini, V. Mertz excels at crafting noodles, cooking them to a perfect al dente, and pairing them with playful sauces and proteins.

Though V. Mertz has a menu of appetizers, entrees, and desserts, to get the full experience one should indulge with the tasting menu, a six-course meal accompanied with multiple amuse bouches, petite fours, and a palate cleanser between dinner and dessert (ours was a delightful poached pear sorbet with pickled blueberries). The experience can be ramped up even further with wine pairings, which are delivered and thoroughly explained by one of the friendly sommeliers in a way even a complete wine novice (hand raised) can comprehend.

Regardless of what you get for an entree, you’re making a huge mistake if you don’t start with the classic Bread Service. The soft coconut rolls are similar to brioche, with a sweet flavor and soft-as-a-feather consistency. They’re lightly roasted in pork fat, adding an irresistible richness.

For as much as it excels with food, V. Mertz is just as special when it comes to wine and drinks. General manager Matthew Brown has a seemingly unending knowledge of different spirits, and he can not only pair wine with any dish, but also make expert alcohol recommendations.

The service is attentive and knowledgable, more than happy to make smart recommednations.

Whether you indulge with the tasting menu and wine pairings or belly up to the bar for cocktails and a charcuterie plate, V. Mertz’s service is impeccable and customizes the dining experience to your desires. Every restaurant says they put the needs and wants of the customer first; V. Mertz is one of the best at actually carrying through on that promise.

And you’ll be transported to a different place that you and your tastebuds have not yet experienced.