CASA BOVINA
Hoppen Hierarchy: ★★★★
District: Lincoln
Elevated Italian Steakhouse
Perfect For: Date Night; Upscale Dining; Drinks
Standout Dishes: Chef’s Tasting Menu; Tajarin
During my first meal at Casa Bovina, we had the priveledge of sitting at the chef’s table. Just a few feet from the pass, we could chat and interact with the chefs during lulls in service. At one point in the meal, Chef de Cuisine Todd Abboud told my wife and I that the team intends to make Casa Bovina a destination restaurant.
“Mission accomplished,” I thought as I savored another bite of sweet, perfectly seared scallop. “Anyone in Nebraska—maybe even the Midwest—would drive to Lincoln to experience this.“
But then Todd continued: “We want people all over the county to want to come here.”
That comment stopped me cold. To make such a remark at an establishment in one of our nation’s food capitals, such as New York or San Francisco, would’ve been bold. But Lincoln, NE? That just sounds crazy.
But as we wistfully enjoyed the final bites of our glorious meal, I had a more optimistic thought: “Why not?”
That’s how special Casa Bovina is.
This is a restaurant that employs chefs who’ve worked at some of America’s finest restaurants: Zach Midgett (The French Laundry) and Abboud (Le Cirque; Spiaggia). Its pasta program and front of house are run by Jordan Reed, a longtime veteran of Avoli Osteria, who learned under Omaha legend Dario Schicke.
And the restaurant is backed by Certified Piedmontese, a Lincoln-based company serving up some of the finest beef in the country. Who’s to say Casa Bovina couldn’t become a must-try eating destination?
I’m certainly not going to bet against it. The restaurant has a warm, relaxed yet refined vibe that welcomes you the moment you step in the door. The exceedingly friendly and attentive staff is happy to assist diners in navigating the menu, which features small plates, pastas, and high-quality proteins as well as multiple tasting menus.
The steaks are among the best you’ll find in the region, blowing away the typical steakhouse fare. These proteins are juicy and buttery soft with a nice seared exterior and a brilliant sprinkling of finishing salt to enliven every ounce of flavor in the meat.
The seafood is delicate and fresh tasting, and the pastas, created in house, have a nice al dente texture and are paired with wise proteins and sauces. Each dish is a minor masterpiece and a masterclass in balancing flavors and textures.
While you can enjoy a fantastic meal a la carte, I recommend taking the tasting menu route to experience the full breadth of what Casa Bovina has to offer. After your palate is awakened by an amuse bousche (a free first bite from the kitchen), your taste buds will be taken through a seven-course tour of flavor.
The tasting menu changes frequently, but here’s what we had on our first visit to give you an idea of what to expect:
- Sourdough (gribiche, soft scrambled egg, creme fraiche): I’ve never had an egg done better. The egg was so light and creamy, and the caviar adds both texture and pops of brininess.
- Garden Squash Salad (mozzarella, zucchini, almond vierge): This dish is proof that salad doesn’t have to be boring. The vegetables added good bite, and the mozzarella cheese introduced a creamy, fatty element to this refreshing dish.
- Ahi Crudo (avocado, cucumber, radish): If you told me this tuna was swimming ten minutes before it was served, I’d have believed you. That’s how clean, fresh, and fatty it tasted.
- Tajarin: The highlight of the meal, to be sure. A giant wheel of parmigiano reggiano is wheeled over to the table and heated to melt the top. A nest of tajarin pasta is then mixed into the melty cheese and plated, resulting in a rich, gooey teepee of noodles and dairy. This dish is a masterpiece and a must-try for any diner.
- Duck Confit (polenta, cherry, morels): The duck’s crispy skin provided a perfect foil to the tender, fatty meat beneath, especially when mixed with a sweet cherry puree. The polenta was smooth and creamy
- Scallop (spinach, fregola, onion, zabaglione): Buttery. That’s the first word that entered my mind as the sweet, rich flavors of this perfectly cooked scallop burst forth. A light lemon foam brilliantly added the acidity normally associated with seafood, and the fregola (a small balled pasta) provided texture.
- Rib Cap (pomme puree, mushroom): Certified Piedmontese is known for its lean, delicious beef, and that was the star on this plate. Cooked to a medium rare, the steak was almost silky in texture, and it was excellent when mixed with the creamy pomme puree.
- Garden Mulberry Sorbetto: I never knew I liked mulberries before this dish, and now I’m a devotee. The combination of fresh, sweet, and tart flavors, along with the texture of a shortbread crumble, made this dessert a winner.
- Beef Tallow & Burnt Sugar Gelato: Yes, you read that right. Oh, and did I mention there’s bourbon in here, too? This restaurant can take flavors that seemingly have no business belonging in dessert and make them sing.
There’s no weak point in the meal. Each course serves as a progression, awakening your palate as you move from light salads and fish to more decadent pastas and steaks before finishing with stunning, sweet desserts.
The tasting menu experience is about 2-2.5 hours of pure culinary bliss, but if you’re looking for a shorter meal, opt for a couple of small plates, a delectable steak, or one of Casa Bovina’s many tempting plates of pasta. From what I’ve had here, there’s simply no going wrong.
As an added bonus, before your meal, you can visit the The Mercato (located just beneath the restaurant) to buy meat, fresh bread and pasta, and other locally made cheeses, hot sauces, and other goods. If you purchase goods that need to be kept cold, you can store them in the restaurant’s walk-in cooler until the conclusion of your meal.