CHUANJUI

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★

African cuisine

Perfect For: Casual Dining; Lunch; Takeout

Standout Dishes: Egussi and Fufu; Jollof Rice; Suya & Puff Puff

Chef Hope Ngamelue does not have the traditional chef story. She has no professional culinary training. For her day job, she’s an accounting manager.

But if you visited her food truck, Chuanjui, you’d have no idea she wasn’t a trained chef operating the business full time. The flavors popping out of these to-go containers are not only delicious, but tell the story of Hope’s upbringing in Cameroon, located in the heart of Africa.

The truck typically parks at 3423 N 90th St near 90th & Maple, though it can be inconsistent about posting availability on its social channels. If it is out and about, it’s hard to miss, as it’s bright orange catches the eyeballs and immediately draws interest.

So too does the grill located on the “porch” of the truck, letting guests know that the meats are grilled fresh. This lends a nice char and pleasant smokiness to most of the proteins.

The menu consists of African stews and rice bowls filled with the protein of your choice, plantains, or fufu. It’s a relatively simple, pared-down menu, but each dish brings its own unique flavor.

And nothing packs more delicious punch than the Egussi & Fufu, a dish unlike basically anything you’ll find in Omaha. The stew is hearty and creamy with a spectacular combo of rich, savory, and nutty flavors. It’s also filled with spinach, beef, and smoked fish, giving it a meaty, salty undertone.

But the scene stealer of the bowl is the fufu. This soft, stretchy ball has a consistency somewhere between bread dough and mashed potatoes, and it’s basically flavorless. But when you rip off hunks of it and use it to absorb the thick stew, it makes for a magical experience.

Of the proteins, the Suya is the clear winner. This brisket is seasoned immaculately, sliced into thin strips, and grilled. The rub is smoky and nutty with a warming chili tickle, a flavor combination that works brilliantly with the savory, smoky brisket.

The Grilled Goat is firm and lean, has a pleasant smoky flavor, and is seasoned extremely well, adding a layer of salt and to the natural earthy, nutty flavor of the meat. The Grilled Chicken is the most tame flavor wise of the three; it’s not displeasing, but it lacks the pop of the other meats.

An important note: the skin is left on the chicken and the fat cap on the goat, which I find a bit chewy. But that’s how it’s traditionally prepared in Africa, and Hope says it’s a cultural preparation. The skin helps keep the chicken moist. And there are even dishes in Africa where cow skin is the protein. It’s something that may be unfamiliar to American palates, but don’t be thrown off by it.

The Oxtail Stew is another hit, as the beef is rich and bursting with robust, meaty flavor, and the sweetness of the tomato-forward stew works well with it. Simmered in a flavorful stew, the starch in the Jollof Rice takes on a gorgeous red hue and a savory flavor with a hint of sweetness from tomatoes.

For a side, you can opt for French fries, but if you’re at an African food truck, you need to choose something a bit more exciting. Try the Fried Plantains, with their sticky, caramelized sweetness and fruity flavor. Though they have crisp edges, the flesh is melt-in-your-mouth tender, and they’re excellent eaten on their own or cut up and inserted into your main dish.

Also on the sweet side are Puff Puff, deep-fried dough balls that are both sweet and rich. Imagine a donut hole were crossed with a beignet; The outside is golden brown and crispy while the middle is airy and spongey. These are addicting.

Don’t expect a quick meal from Chuanjui, as I’ve waited 20+ minutes on several visits. I’ll always contend that great food is worth waiting for (and this qualifies), but if you’re in a rush and need to get going, this might not be the right Omaha food truck for the occasion.

These are the types of endeavors we really need to support in Omaha. African culture and cuisine is sorely unrepresented here, a shame given how rich and warm both the food and the people are. When we support these concepts, we invite not only other chefs and creators of African descent, but of all other cuisines to boldly go where few in Omaha have dared to. And when you eat this food, you not only get a delicious meal, but you gain a greater understanding and respect of both culture and cuisine.