FORNO

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★★

Neapolitan-style pizza and authentic pasta

Perfect For: Breakfast/Brunch; Casual Dining; Date Night; Lunch; Happy Hour; Takeout

Standout Dishes: Carne Pizza; Spaghetti & Meatballs; Buongiorno Pizza (brunch)

When restaurants are fortunate enough to open a new location, the second iteration looks nearly identical to the first. The vibe may be slightly different, maybe with a few menu tweaks, but both usually provide a similar experience.

That’s more or less what genius chef Nick Strawhecker tried to do with Dante, a wonderful Italian eatery in Rockbrook that specializes in Neapolitan-style pizzas and fresh pasta. After experiencing great success, Nick decided to expand to a second location in the rapidly-growing Blackstone District.

For whatever reason, the idea didn’t quite take, and in April 2019, Nick decided to pivot. He closed Dante, and a few months later, Forno was born.

It’s safe to say diners are digging Nick’s new ideas.

Forno ditched the traditional “appetizers” and “entrees” section of the menu. Instead, it divides the menu into Snacks, Pastas, Pizzas, Meat & Fish, and Sides, encouraging groups of diners to share several dishes together. The menu rotates seasonly and, though there are a few Dante holdovers, looks wildly different than what you’ll find at the parent restaurant.

The vibe is noticeably more casual at Forno, which also offers brunch on the weekends.

What hasn’t changed is the restaurant’s commitment to excellence, which starts with the brilliant wood-fired pizzas. These pies are cooked in an 800-degree oven for about 80 seconds, which creates a wonderfully airy crust on which to build. Dough bubbles and pockets of char make each bite a new experience.

The sauce, crafted from San Marzano tomatoes, brings a nice acidity and slight sweetness. And rather than douse the entire pie with shredded mozzarella, Forno uses slices of fresh mozz, which create creamy pillows in some bites while allowing the other ingredients to stand out.

This process causes the pizza to feel incredibly light. There’s almost no grease, and you can put away an entire Forno pie without feeling overloaded or gross. The pizzas change seasonally—if you’re a fan of spicy Italian sausage, get the Salsiccia if it’s available—but the crust, cheese, and sauce don’t, and that’s what matters.

Great as the pizza is, the pasta isn’t far behind. Again, the menu changes fairly frequently, but you can rest assured that you’re going to get a great product. Forno uses fresh pasta, house-made sauces, and local ingredients to ensure that everything is fresh and on point.

The greatest compliment I can give the pasta comes from my wife and I’s first visit to Forno. Sarah, a devout pasta connoisseur, lit up after her first bite into the Rigatoni and Pork Meatballs, declaring it the closest she’d tasted since her visits to Italy.

Don’t just think of Forno as a lunch and dinner spot, however. It also serves brunch on the weekends, and the same qualities that make its evening dishes great extend into the morning. Some of the same dishes are even available.

The traditional breakfast staples are present, though most are given a wood-fired twist: Drop Biscuits with Sausage Gravy and Fried Potatoes; a Meatloaf Sandwich on focaccia; Creamy Polenta with Pork & Beef Ragu.

There are also eight pizzas on the menu, many of which have a breakfast spin (including one loaded with sausage gravy). My personal favorite is the Buongiorno, which tops that amazing crust with olive oil, eggs, potatoes, and prosciutto. There are so many interesting flavors and textures interacting: the starchiness of the potatoes, the creaminess of the eggs and cheese, and the salt and fat from the prosciutto. It’s a unique and delicious take on pizza.

Regardless of which meal you visit for, you can be assured friendly service in a casual, vibrant atmosphere. Meals typically arrive about 10 minutes after ordering, so it can make for a quick meal if need be.

I can’t quite put Forno as high on my list as I do Dante, which is one of my favorite places to eat in Omaha. But it’s not far behind. Whatever Nick didn’t love about the original second Dante, there’s no doubt he ironed things out in round 2.