FRANK'S PIZZERIA

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★

NY-style pizza

Perfect For: Casual Dining; Lunch; Takeout

Standout Dishes: Cheese Pizza; Pepperoni Pizza

Due to its versatility, there’s a wide range of different pizza cravings. At times, you may desire the rustic elegance of a wood-fired pizza from Dante or Via Farina. At others, you can’t get the thought of a thick, caramelized Detroit-style pie out of your head. Sometimes, nothing but a kite-sized slice from Lighthouse Pizza & Fries will do.

But when you want that craving for a simple, greasy, quintessential NY-style pizza hits, Frank’s Pizzeria is one of Omaha’s best options.

Located in a humble strip mall off 132nd and Dodge, you could drive by Frank’s hundreds of times without even noticing it. That’s exactly what I did (to much regret). But once you find the proper motivation to visit, you’ll know you’ve found something special the moment you step in the door.

The decor screams old-school pizza parlor: upholstered booths, walls covered with signed photos of famous guests, even a classic pinball machine. Orders are taken at the counter in front of an open kitchen where, if you please, you can watch your pie be prepared and plated.

Frank’s offers thick, square Sicilian pizzas, but it’s calling card is the classic New York slice. The pizzas are cooked in deck ovens, resulting in a crust that is firm on the edge, yet thin and pliable enough to be folded and eaten on the go. The slices are large (2-3 is enough to quell most appetites), and every millimeter is covered with gooey buffalo mozzarella cheese. A tangy, zesty tomato sauce rounds out the experience.

Because Frank’s nails these core elements, I’ve found its simplest slices to be its best. The Cheese Pizza is a masterpiece in simplicity, and the Pepperoni Pizza adds the wonderful pops of salt and fat that make pepperoni so addicting.

Frank’s speciality pizzas are absolutely worth trying, but the abundance of toppings (these slices are loaded) distracts from the basic elements that make the pizza great. The New York Special Pizza has everything you’d want in a classic combo pie: crispy veggies, spicy sausage, pepperoni, and sharp white onions. And the Veggie Pie has great texture and bite from fresh vegetables.

The Manhattan Meat Lover is the exception to this rule. The mountain of meats (ground beef, bacon, sausage, ham, and pepperoni) is a beautiful protein overload. It’s a bit salty, but that’s a minor complaint when you consider all the flavor in this slice.

But the busyness of these options masks the soft, tangy cheese, the acidic sauce, and the crispy crust. There’s nothing wrong with these pizzas, but I’d recommend favoring pies with fewer ingredients (and Frank’s allows you to customize your perfect slice).

As an added bonus, you can order Frank’s by the pie or the slice, allowing you to try several different options in one visit.

If you’re craving gourmet pizza, this isn’t it. Frank’s is the no-frills option free of any bells and whistles. It’s just solid, delicious pizza crafted with quality ingredients. Pizza doesn’t have to be upscale or innovative to stand out, and Frank’s is a perfect example of that.