REMEMBERING OMAHA RESTAURANTS THAT CLOSED IN 2022
In many ways, 2022 was a fantastic year for the Omaha restaurant scene. So many new fantastic places opened, and established delight Twisted Cork Bistro re-entered the picture after almost two years of being closed.
Unfortunately, our city also lost some great restaurants, from promising newcomers to pillars of our dining scene. Here we celebrate and honor the restaurants that may no longer physically exist but have a permanent residence in our hearts.
Dario's Brasserie
There was nothing in Omaha quite like Dario’s Brasserie, the French bistro that thrilled Dundee diners since 2006. With a menu of French delicacies such as mussels, stuffed crepes, and some of the most decadent, velvety short ribs I’ve ever tasted, Dario’s brought elevated European flair to Omaha. My wife still swoons when she recalls the Duck Stroganoff (pictured above).
The restaurant was also known for its excellent cheeseburger, extensive roster of Belgian and European beers, and a laid-back atmosphere that was welcoming to families with young kids and couples on their wedding anniversary alike. And when you visited, there was a good chance you’d get to meet owner Dario Schicke, a charismatic James Beard-nominated chef who is more than happy to interact with his guests.
Fortunately, Dario’s legacy lives on just down the street at his second restaurant, Avoli Osteria, which is one os Omaha’s finest Italian spots. Regardless, the pain of losing his first eatery still stings.
The Hunger Block
Losing The Hunger Block was significant be not only because of its delicious food, but because it felt like a step backward culturally. While there had been other Latin American restaurants in Omaha, this one was the most widely accepted. Omahans were embracing arepas, empanadas, and Cubano sandwiches like never before, not to mention arroz chaufa (Peruvian rice), fried plantains, and pabellon crillo, a Venezuelan dish with rice, beans, and shredded pork.
Omaha still has gems serving Latin American cuisine, such as El Arepon, Salmex, and La Choza, and you should absolutely check them out. But The Hunger Block was the most widely recognized, and I’ll forever remember the “El Jefe” Cubano Sandwich.
j coco
Jenny Coco is one of the pillars of Omaha’s restaurant scene, one of the first chefs that cut her teeth in other cities before returning to plant her flag in Omaha by opening j coco in 2012. Her New American fare served in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere earned her three James Beard nominations, as the skilled yet playful chef served everything from a Colorado lamb T-bone steak to King’s Frenchee Bites (yep, that’s American cheese coated in cornflake crust and deep-fried).
What made j coco awesome was that it felt like it was for anyone. Are you an adventurous foodie? Order the yellowfin tuna, grilled octopus, or Moroccan lamb meatballs. Like to stick to the basics? Savor a wagyu burger (which was one of Omaha’s best) or a shave prime rib sandwich.
j coco was an elevated restaurant serving approachable, delicious food, and that’s something worth celebrating.
Lo Sole Mio
There are still plenty of amazing Italian restaurants in Omaha, but few had the history or the ambience of Lo Sole Mio. With low lighting and Italian decor, eating at this Omaha institution felt like stepping into another era, which was partially why Omahans adored it since it opened in 1992.
But mostly they came for the excellent, heaping plates of pasta. In its 30 years in business, you can probably count on one hand the number of times a customer left hungry. And the heavily-sauced plates of noodles of all shapes and sizes all had a unique personality.
To get a sense of how beloved Lo Sole Mio was, during its final weeks of business customers lined up for hours outside its doors to get one final meal at their favorite Italian joint. The restaurants will reopen under new ownership as “The Mio” sometime this year under new ownership.
Rude Shrimp Co.
The Rude Shrimp Co. was made to exist in a coastal locale with beach vibes and a laid-back swagger. The fact that we got this awesome restaurant serving schchimi chicken, fish tacos, and shrimp in all manner of delicious forms, for a short time was a blessing.
So when The Shrimp Co. moved to Fort Meyers, Fla., it felt like a child leaving for college; it was sad, but we knew it was the best for them. The restaurant was thriving in its new home until Hurricane Ian wiped it out in September. It’s now trying to rebuild—if you have the means to donate, please do so here. Either way, keep The Rude Shrimp Co. and wonderful owners T.J. Holzapfel and Lisa Lahners in your prayers.
Butterfish
Butterfish was best known for its sushi, which ranked among Omaha’s best. But I’ll remember this Blackstone restaurant for its artful, playful takes on Asian dishes and shared plates and an atmosphere that practically screamed happy hour. The fried rice, amped up with sweet braised pork shoulder, hot Chinese sausage, and perfectly scrambled eggs, was a perfect example of Butterfish’s creative brilliance.
You can still experience owner Matt Moser’s refined menus down the street at Stirnella, but the cuisine is of a completely different fare. Blackstone is the perfect place for a hip sushi joint, and with Butterfish gone, it feels incomplete.
Culprit Cafe
With three locations all over Omaha and an excellent reputation for coffee, cocktails, and delicious pastries, Culprit Cafe figured to be one of the last places that would shutter its doors.
Yet, for reasons that are too complicated to explain in this space, Culprit ended its business in 2022. Gone were the homemade pastries (including arguably Omaha’s best cinnamon roll), addicting crispy potatoes, and craveable breakfast sandwiches. Omaha still has plenty of great coffee houses, but Culprit will be forever missed.
Oasis Falafel of Omaha
Middle Eastern cuisine is underrepresented in Omaha, which is why Oasis Falafel of Omaha felt so important. Not only did it provide a standout version of falafel, but its kabob plates, babba ganoush, Moroccan eggplant, and pitas stuffed with chicken shawarma helped Omaha see this food in a new light.
Losing this restaurant hurt before even acknowledging we know longer get to savor its creamy, garlic-y hummus, which put just about every other version I’ve tried to shame.
Tired Texan BBQ
There’s something unforgettable about delicious barbecue, and while incredible options like J’s Smokehouse, Porky Butts BBQ, and Smokin Barrel remain, Tired Texan’s departure stings.
A fire forced the restaurant, which focused on Southern barbecue, to close in June of 2021. The restaurant briefly re-opened, then tried to rebrand as Poppin’ Smoke Southern Grill in Bellevue. Unfortunately the concept didn’t take hold, but it’s hard to forget the spicy rub on Tired Texan’s ribs or its Texas Tumbleweeds (deep-fried balls of hash browns, bacon, and cheese).
Blend Food Hall
Blend Food Hall might’ve just arrived before its time for Omaha. The idea is spectacular: with several concepts housed in one facility, families or friend groups could order all kinds of different food to be delivered at one time. The agonizing decision of, “Where should we go to eat?” was answered; you could order burgers, philly cheesesteaks, rice bowls, breakfast burritos, and more, all in one spot, to be delivered to your location. This was convenience, personified.
But while the idea of food halls has proven successful in Omaha (just check out The Inner Rail or Flagship Commons), the idea of doing it all virtually didn’t click with Omahans. I hope this concept returns in the future with a better understanding and greater success.
Ansel's Pastrami & Bagels
Before Phyl’s Deli opened in downtown, this was as close as Omaha had to a New York-style deli. With smoky, peppery pastrami loaded high on rye bread and chewy boiled bagels, Ansel’s brought New York deli culture to Omaha. Its take on the Philly cheesesteak was underrated, as well.
If you’re still looking for a taste of the Big Apple, check out Noli’s Pizzeria, a NY-style pizza shop under the same ownership.
Unfortunately, restaurant closures are just a part of the business. There’s no avoiding it, and even some of the best eventually shut their doors for one reason for another. But that doesn’t mean we can’t celebrate them, their success, and the things they did for Omaha.
To these restaurants, I raise a glass. You are gone, but truly, not forgotten.