KINAARA

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★★

Indian Cuisine

Perfect For: Casual Dining; Takeout; Vegan Options

Standout Dishes: Pork Cheek Vindaloo; Beef Coconut Fry; Grandma’s Fish & Mango Curry; Shrimp Moilee; Fish Pollichatu

I have but one problem with eating at Kinaara—these flavors are so unique, so pronounced, and so vivid, I often struggle with how to describe them.

The food coming out of this kitchen is so different from anything else I’ve experienced, and my lack of context or comparison hinders my ability to put into words exactly what your tastebuds experience here.

So I usually just keep it simple: “Go here. Immediately.”

Because those exquisite flavors don’t just make Kinaara the best Indian restaurant in Omaha. It’s one of the city’s most delicious eating establishments period, regardless of cuisine.

Chef/owner Ashish Sathyan came to America from Kerala, India, where he worked as a chef in 5-star restaurants. He grew up with family that ate seafood nearly every day, and that lifestyle is apparent in some of Kinaara’s best dishes.

Honestly, my biggest struggle when visiting Kinaara is selecting which dish to devour. The Thali dish eliminates that FOMO by giving you damn near half the menu. This traditional feast contains smaller portions of many dishes, including tandoori chicken, rice pudding, matar paneer, and chicken tikka masala, along with rice, sauces, and naan.

The variety of flavors and textures on this platter are astounding, as spice, sweetness, crunch, creaminess, and about 20 other sensations collide in a beautiful way. It’s a beast of a meal, it all tastes so good you’ll want to eat the whole thing. Note: it’s only available Wednesdays and Thursdays, so plan ahead.

As a common rule, if a dish’s name contains the word “Grandma,” chances are it’s going to be good. These recipes are typically tried and true, refined over dozens of years and filled with love. This is certainly true of Grandma’s Fish and Mango Curry, a salmon dish that combines sweetness from mangoes and coconut milk and tang from mustard seeds to form a wonderful dish. The Salmon Moilee may not bear Grandma’s name, but it’s no less delicious. This combination of turmeric, ginger, garlic, and coconut milk is unlike anything I’ve previously tasted. It’s difficult to describe—all I know is I just wanted forkfuls more of it.

There’s plenty to like from the land at Kinaara, as well. Diners can order entrees with chicken, goat, lamb, salmon, or shrimp along with Vindaloo, Curry, Chettinad, Saag, and Korma sauces. Each meat is very tender and presents a slightly different flavor, and the sauces vary greatly. The tomato-forward vindaloo brings acidity and a good deal of heat, while the Chettinad is a peppery gravy.

The constant on these entrees is the wonderfully cooked jasmine rice, which adheres well to the sauce and provides a wonderful bed for the protein to rest on. Diners can choose their desired heat level, ranging from Mild to Extra Hot. The Medium likely matches most palates, and Ashish can really ramp up the spice if the customer desires.

Follow Kinaara on Facebook and Instagram to stay up to date on its daily specials, because that’s where Ashish really unleashes his creativity. If the Beef Coconut Fry is on special, do not hesitate; get in your car and get to the restaurant. Slow roasted in ginger, spices, garlic, and onion, these tender hunks of beef explode with peppery, wonderful flavor. And the Short Rib Rogan Josh features the most tender, succulent hunks of meat (courtesy of the brilliant Raikes Beef Co.) in a creamy tomato curry sauce.

The Pork Cheek Vindaloo, which features fork-tender hunks of luscious pig smothered in a spicy but also bright, acidic sauce. Speaking of spice, keep your eye out for the Phall Wings. Phall is one of the hottest curries in the world and, while Kinaara’s version definitely packs a punch, the moist, tender chicken is so delicious you’ll push through the pepper-induced pain.

If you decide to visit on a Friday or Saturday, you’ll also get the chance to experience one of Kinaara’s truly special dishes: Fish Pollichathu (pictured in the header photo). Cooked and served in a banana leaf, this delicate, flaky portion of salmon has intense, deep flavors not typically paired with seafood. Fish is normally associated with lighter seasonings and flavors, but this piece of salmon is bold and awakens your tastebuds with a combo of chili powder, turmeric, and black pepper. It’s not heavy-handed, however; you still get the flavor of the fish, just paired with a combination of flavors your palate might not have experienced before.

Ashish is so adept with his flavors that he doesn’t even need protein to make a dish sing. Kinaara’s menu features a number of vegetarian and vegan dishes, including the show-stopping Jackfruit Biryani.

All of Kinaara’s biryani feature long grain bismati rice cooked low and slow with spices and curry, infusing every bite with a punch of vibrant, aromatic sensations. Buried underneath a mound of this delicately spiced fluffy rice is cooked down jackfruit, shredded into strands similar to pulled pork. These chunks not only have the texture of meat, but they add a subtle sweetness that’s welcome to the dish.

That biryani is punched up another level in one of Kinaara’s specials, the Goat Neck Biryani, which is served in a bowl with a cracker-like crust, transforming it into a sort of Indian pot pie full of tender, fatty goat and buttery rice.

And any Indian restaurant worth its salt has to have great Tandoori Chicken, right? Kinaara’s is so tender, so moist, and so well flavored… I’ve not found any other like it.

Whatever you order, a side of bread is a must. Kinaara offers six different varieties of naan, including versions stuffed with cheese or almonds. The bread is a duality, crispy on the outside, yet pillowy soft on the interior.

Or you can opt for the Kerala Paratha, a layered flatbread similar to a flaky pancake. Each bite brings forth a delicious gush of buttery ghee. This comforting, satisfying bread is great to eat on its own or used as a utensil to scarf down meats and rice.

The through line of Kinaara’s menu is the flavors are just different. Even the most experienced palates can find new and interesting flavors here, dishes that leave you thinking, “I don’t know what that was… but I really like it.”

If you’re not the adventurous type and want to stick to familiar hits like Chicken Tikka Masala and Butter Chicken, that’s no problem at Kinaara. You can find excellent versions of them here, and you’ll be served without judgement.

But if you really want to dive into the deep flavors Indian cuisine has to offer, this is a must-visit restaurant. There’s always something new and exciting to experience here, and while my order constantly changes, my excitement for these flavors never will.