KOJI
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★★
District: Central Omaha
Yakitori, sushi, & small plates
Perfect For: Casual Dining; Date Night; Happy Hour; Upscale Dining; Vegan Options
Standout Dishes: Bolo; RANZA; Kani Miso; Rosella; Tsukune
The answer to that latter question is what makes Koji completely unique in the Omaha market. An izakaya is a type of Japanese restaurant that pairs small plates and snacks with alcoholic drinks. While Koji borrows Yoshitomo’s sushi prowess and features many of its sister restaurant’s offerings, it also offers small hot and cold plates and yakitori.
The latter is Koji’s calling card. Yakitori are bite-sized pieces of meat (usually chicken) cooked over a small, rectangular charcoal grill and served on a skewer. The meat is cooked slowly at a low temperature, and the chef consistently rotates the meat to ensure every side gets a kiss from the flames below.
Diners, in particular those seated at the bar, can marvel at the cooking process happening only a few feet away. In fact, all plates are constructed in full view of the customers, giving guests a transparent view and the pleasure of seeing how their food is made.
Though there are some skewers that stick around, others rotate consistently, particularly those featuring rare parts of the bird, including stomach, tail, and oyster.
Anyone who’s dined at Yoshitomo won’t be surprised to hear the same quality and care that David puts into the plates there carries over to his second venture. While one might think meat skewers could get repetitive, each offering has a distinct personality.
The Tsukune features four chicken meatballs that are perfectly tender in the center, but the grill gives them a crisp exterior. This juicy orb is only enhanced by a dunk in the rich egg yolk sauce.
The Kare is also great, but with a completely different flavor profile. Supple chicken breast is served with nicely browned grill marks and a smoky essence that is balanced by a tangy, herbaceous green curry.
Koji’s rotating menu is mostly comprised of chicken, but you’ll also find non-poultry items like pork belly and octopus. These heavenly skewers are delivered throughout the meal, rather than altogether at once, so you can fully enjoy the flavor of each.
Though yakitori showcases Koji’s technical proficiency and adherence to traditional cooking methods, the rest of the menu is filled with whimy and winks at the diner.
No portion of the menu better exemplifies this than the bao buns. These pillowy, fluffy buns are filled with savory ingredients that often mimic fast food sandwiches, such as the KFC (fried chicken, gochujang, and slaw).
The best example is the Bunzai, an upgraded version of the Nebraska fast food staple. Seasoned ground beef and cabbage are combined with enough melted American cheese to glue the sides of the pillowy bun together.
Another fun dish, the Bolo (pictured in the header photo), playfully combines Japanese and Italian cooking. Giant pork dumplings are submerged in a rich, hearty chicken bolognese. This ragu puts most Italian restaurants to shame; meaty and with just a touch of sweetness, I’d eat a dump truck full of it.
Your order simply must include one or two (if not more) Temaki Handrolls. Imagine a small taco, only the shell is a piece of seaweed. These bite-sized delicacies pack more flavor than entire plates of food at most restaurants, especially the Kani Miso. The filling is wonderful, buttery rice cooked in crab fat and adorned with chunks of snow crab and caviar. It’s rich, unctuous, and complex; there are so many flavors and textures that your tastebuds most sort through, but they do so in complete bliss.
The Yukke isn’t quite as powerful of a flavor bomb, but with rich, delicious wagyu beef, spicy/sweet gochujang, and a creamy egg yolk crown, it’s a fantastic bite.
The Rosella is another must-try item. This bowl of rice hits the whole spectrum of textures, from crispy bits that were roasted on the bottom of the pan to sticky grains on top. The rice’s natural sweetness is balanced by spice by XO sauce, acidity from tomatillos, and gooey, fatty egg yolk sauce.
Utterback is known for exquisite fish preparations, and Koji doesn’t dissapoint. The Abura Sake is a perfect example: thin pieces of gorgeously silky, fleshy salmon get a subtle salty kick from the shoyu broth and a touch of heat from chili crisp. Fish lovers will also dig the Crudo, composed with mild, sweet striped bass and tart kiwi. The leche de tigre is a tad aggressive and brings heavy acidity, but if you only use a bit of it, the balance is perfect.
Fans of Yoshitomo will be pleased to hear that Koji also features many of the rolls, nigiri, and sashimi that caught the attention of the James Beard committee. Favorites like the Khaleesi, Go-San, and Rodeo rolls are present, along with nigiri like the Aburi Wagyu and Hama Toast (for my money, two of the single best bites of food in the city).
The Haru Roll is a brilliant example of David’s sushi mastery. Delicate, fatty salmon receives a bit of heat from ginger, some sourness from Ume plum, and herby sweetness from Japanese mint. The balance is perfect, and the result leaves you wanting another bite to process more information.
That’s what makes Koji such a special experience. Each bite contains such a variety of textures and ingredients that you struggle to comprehend it all with just one taste. You must return again and again to fully grasp everything the restaurant is conveying in the dish. Dining here isn’t just a meal; it’s a journey, an experience.
Koji may be a sister restaurant to Yoshitomo, but it’s not an identical twin. While both spots are incredible, Koji’s yakitori and small plates offer delicious differences from Yoshitomo and make it a must-visit restaurant.