KONA GRILL
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★
District: Village Pointe
Sushi & New American Cuisine
Perfect For: Lunch; Casual Dining; Date Night; Happy Hour
Standout Dishes: Avocado Egg Rolls; Basil Pesto Linguine; Fiery Shrimp Roll
It’s not often that a restaurant is best known for its apps, but Kona Grill‘s lineup is so crave-worthy that’s it has become the restaurant’s defining quality. Talk to most people and the first comment they’ll make about Kona are the apps and drinks, which make the restaurant a popular happy hour haunt.
In fact, I had a coworker recently tell me he and his wife go there consistently for apps, but he’d never tried anything off the regular menu. Delicious as Kona’s starters are, the entrees are worth sticking around for too.
Kona Grill arrived in 2004 when Village Pointe opened and has been serving an eclectic menu ever since. The roster includes ribs, poke bowls, salads, pad thai, burgers, slider, and seven different flatbreads. Oh, and there’s a sushi bar with dozens of different rolls. The menu is wide-ranging and features many different styles of food.
But let’s begin with those famous apps. Diners can choose from edamame, calamari, deviled eggs, several different forms of sashimi, and a tuna tower.
One of the more clever options are the Avocado Egg Rolls. Full disclaimer: my wife and I are complete suckers for avocado and will include it in just about any dish we cook. We were predestined to love these, but I dare anyone to say a bad word about them. The creaminess of the avocado pairs perfectly with the crispy exterior, and not an ounce of unwanted oil seeps into the green flesh.
Some flecks of red pepper and onion provide texture, but the hero is the cilantro honey sauce. The mix of sweet and citrus is seriously addicting, and I found myself consistently pouring the leftover sauce over my entree. It’s that good.
Not to be outdone are the Potstickers. The filling of steamed chicken and vegetable dumplings is delicious, and these dumplings are packed with innards. The quick fry produces an exterior that is slightly crispy, yet it still embraces the doughy texture of a dumpling. A dump in the slightly sweet soy sauce only enhances the experience.
The drinks are mostly a hit, and they are strong. While I wasn’t a huge fan of Kona’s take on a Manhattan, the Whiskey Smash (Jack Daniel’s, pineapple juice, ginger beer) is quite delicious. And the Cucumber Southside (vodka, lime, mint leaves, cucumber, soda) is very refreshing. The cocktail menu runs 19 deep, and that doesn’t include the sake and wine options.
One warning about the happy hour: while the prices are great, it’s only available in the indoor patio/bar area of the restaurant. If you sit in the traditional dining area, you will pay full price. The app prices are reasonable, but the drinks are a bit expensive, and this detail was not explained to us until the bill arrived.
The appetizers get all the love, but there is nothing wrong with the entrees. The Sweet Chili-Glazed Salmon in particular is a hit. The salmon is cooked perfectly, flaking apart with the tender press of a fork. The chili sauce provides a sweetness without being cloying, but the highlight is the char from the cooking process that produces a crispy, delightful exterior. The fried rice, which is peppered with shrimp and bites of pork, would make for a very tasty entree on its own.
The best entree my wife and I have enjoyed is the Basil Pesto Linguine. It’s a bit heavy on sauce, but that’s not a bad thing when the sauce is absolutely delicious. Kona captures that nutty, herby essence that defines pesto perfectly, and the linguine is cooked to a perfect tenderness. Chicken and andouille sausage provide protein, though I would have preferred more of each.
I applaud Kona for expanding its horizons with the Lamb Tagine, but this dish deserves some refining. The lamb was a bit overcooked chewy, and there wasn’t enough of it to match the massive bed of rice on which it perched. But the meat was very flavorful and carried hints of cinnamon, cumin, and ginger. The jasmine rice was cooked perfectly and added a touch of buttery flavor. Even the buttered carrots, normally an afterthought, were a nice addition.
In my experiences, I’ve found Kona’s sushi to be good, but not great. You won’t be disappointed with what you receive, but it doesn’t stand out from some of Omaha’s other offerings. The rolls can be loosely packed and fall apart.
But Kona has plenty of offerings, and they’re quite flavorful. Ironically, I’ve found the simple rolls like the Fiery Shrimp (shrimp, cucumber, motoyaki sauce) to be better than the more expensive specialty rolls, such as the Voodoo (crawfish, avocado, tuna, habanero sauce).
The service is helpful and friendly, and drinks, appetizers, and entrees all arrive within reasonable ordering time. Price, however, can be an issue: on our most recent visit, two drinks, an appetizer, and two entrees cost nearly $100 after tip.
But overall, Kona is a very enjoyable experience. It’s a perfect destination for happy hour, as the appetizers and drinks are excellent, varied, and well-priced. But if you stay for dinner, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.