MARIA'S
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★⭑
District: Ralson
Puffy Tacos & Other Mexican Cuisine
Perfect For: Lunch; Casual Dining; Drinks; Happy Hour
Standout Dishes: Carnitas Taco; Chicken Taco
In the summer of 2018, a new restaurant popped up in Omaha’s Benson district with a very familiar item. Patrons to Taco Co. experienced deja vu after devouring the puffy tacos—most of them have, at some point in the past 40+ years, experienced the dish’s original form at Maria’s.
While Taco Co. is the new kid on the block, Maria’s has been slinging its famous tacos since 1976. The brainchild of Pat and Maria Sanchez, Maria’s lured diners to Ralston with a roster full of Mexican classics, some with unique twists (such as the “gravy” on the enchiladas). But the real draw is the puffy tacos, which draw their name from their fried tortillas. Her grandson Michael brought the classic recipe to Taco Co., but Maria’s remains the OG.
Unlike Taco Co., which has a menu comprised solely of tacos, chips, and dips, Maria’s has a fatter roster. It serves enchiladas, burritos, tostadas, tamales, huevos rancheros, and more.
But the highlight is the tacos, which come in five different varieties – beef, chicken, carnitas, fish, and steak.
Good as the innards are, the shell is what sets these tacos apart. “Puffy” is truly the best adjective to describe them. The flour tortillas expand during the frying process, yet they somehow maintain their integrity. One might expect them to inhale oil and dissolve into a greasy mess, but that simply isn’t the case.
The deep fry adds some crispiness, yet the soft texture of the original product is still very present. It’s the perfect balance between a hard and soft shell, and it doesn’t fall apart despite being jam packed with protein, cheese, lettuce, and tomatoes.
Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but here’s how I’d rank Maria’s options:
- Carnitas: The marinated pork in the carnitas is beyond delicious. It’s juicy, succulent, and has just the right amount of salt. It’s also easily the greasiest of the four we tried, but hey, fat equals flavor. That’s an equation I can’t argue with.
- Chicken: The chicken has far more flavor than this humble bird typically offers. It has just a hint of spice, adding a tiny Southwestern kick.
- Fish: The grilled cod is perfectly flaky and delivers just enough of that briny flavor that accompanies seafood.
- Steak: Adorned with beautiful grill marks, this meat is a winner on presentation alone. But the steak itself is bland and not all that flavorful. It’s not bad by any means, but it pales in comparison to its taco brethren.
I also recommend saving some room for a Tamale. I readily admit it’s not much to look at, but you’ll just have to trust me that this side dish’s flavor overcomes its rough appearance.
The corn masa wrapper is doughy and soft, and it pairs perfectly with the slightly smoky green chile sauce, which added a hint of smokiness. The serrano-pepper based sauce also contains chunks of pork spare rib.
The prices are all pretty reasonable: tacos range from $4-5, but they’re large and two is generally enough to satisfy the normal appetite (though they’re so delicious you’ll want more). The atmosphere is inviting and friendly.
Speed is not Maria’s strong suit. Though the restaurant is large, complete with both indoor and outdoor seating, wait times add up quickly. Prepare for a wait if you go at dinner, particularly on Taco Tuesday (2 beef or chicken tacos for $5).
The service wasn’t exactly speedy, either. Meals can take 45 minutes to arrive, and while the service isn’t rude, I haven’t found the staff to be particularly friendly or attentive.
These are minor gripes in the grand scheme. Maria’s brought the puffy taco to Omaha, and the city is better for it.