MEXITLI RESTAURANT

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★★

Authentic Mexican Cuisine

Standout Dishes: Birria Taco; Enchiladas; Steak Taco; Hot Dog

Alberto Cardenas established his sterling reputation for Mexican food with Mexitli Food Truck, a humble yellow cart that delivers incredible flavors but is easy to miss. You had to know about Mexitli; you probably weren’t ever going to just happen upon it.

Which is why it was so exciting when the truck expanded to a brick and mortar, Mexitli Restaurant. Now not only would Alberto’s food be easier to find, but he could serve it in a cozy environment not dependent on weather.

But would that awesome food translate? Would Alberto be able to create the same magical plates at a higher volume? A few is enough to answer both questions with a resounding “yes.”

Located off 16th and Harney in downtown Omaha, Mexitli is welcoming and cozy. The plate glass windows supply plenty of light, and the decor is bright and colorful. The flashy decorations, colorful blankets, and gorgeous neon sign suggest a party could break out at any time.

But even with the improved environment, it’s still the food that shines brightest at Mexitli. Alberto’s homemade tortillas are a delight, and each protein leaps forward with bright, varied tastes.

It all starts with Mexitli’s tortillas, which are a vibrant bright red. Alberto mixes beet juice in with corn to form these firm, chewy discs. The secret ingredient doesn’t affect the flavor, but it gives the tortillas a visually-arresting trait that sets them apart from any in Omaha. And while soft, they’re also remarkably sturdy—which is important, because they’re loaded with meat.

Of the eight different taco/burrito options, the steak is a favorite. Each hunk releases a nice buttery-ness once bit into, and the grilling adds a healthy amount of char. The cuts of meat could be more consistent, but it’s a minor complaint.

And while the tacos, tortas, and quesadillas that were featured on the food truck are still present, the brick and mortar has allowed him to add some new items. That starts with the Hot Dog, a common street food in Mexico. The frank itself is excellent, with a solid snap on its casing and a literal eruption of juice upon each bite. That delicious dog is wrapped in crispy bacon and slathered in mustard, ketchup, jalapenos, and tomatoes. It’s a beast to simply get your mouth around, but the reward for doing so is spectacular.

There’s also the Birria Taco, which features meat as flavorful as you’ll find. Unlike some other versions of this dish, Mexitli’s isn’t drowned in cheese, allowing the rich, concentrated consommé and the tender, savory beef to be the stars that they are.

The Enchiladas features five handmade tortillas that are stuffed with juicy shredded chicken and cheese, then cooked in a wonderfully earthy, slightly spicy red enchilada sauce. Large as the portion was, I could’ve eaten 3 plates of these.

The Sope is another strong addition. Mexitli forms a masa bowl and deep fries it, making a crispy, flakey receptacle for whatever protein or vegetable you choose. A liberal spattering of cotija cheese adds an addictively salty flavor.

Even the Chips & Beans, a free starter provided to each table, are something special. The homemade chips are both crunchy and slightly chewy, and the bean dip puts any tableside salsa to shame. Creamy and injected with a good amount of lard, these beans will have you scooping for more and more.

Mexitli Restaurant manages to take everything that was great about the restaurant and transfer it to a comfortable brick and mortar setting. It’s not the most elegant restaurant by any means, but it offers the same outstanding food as the truck with table service, an expanded menu, and no fear of weather.

Bottom line: there are few Omaha restaurants that offer the quality Mexican food Mexitli does, and the walls, roof, and dedicated kitchen only add to the excellence of the experience.