MIRANDA OMAHA
Hoppen Hierarchy: ★★★⭑
District: Southwest Omaha
Salvadoran & Latin Cuisine
Perfect For: Breakfast/Brunch; Lunch; Casual Dining; Takeout
Standout Dishes: Pupusas; Tamal de Elote; Pupusa Loco
A pupusa doesn’t look all that exciting on the outside, but these beige discs are flavor bombs just waiting to be unleashed. The delicious masa combines with meat, beans, and cheese to deliver an experience you’d not expect looking at their outside.
That description also sums up Miranda Omaha, a humble restaurant in the Rockbrook area. But while it may not have massive curb appeal, the flavors coming from this kitchen are something special.
Miranda’s is truly a family affair, as most of the employees are members of the Miranda family. The parents immigrated to the United States with a dream to give their children experiences and opportunities they didn’t have, and now the family works together to bring a cuisine severely unrepresented in Omaha: Salvadoran.
Much of the menu consists of dishes that might be completely new to the typical Omaha diner: pastelitos, tostones, riguas, tamal, and whole fried tilapia. The menu is a culinary wonderland filled with new paths to explore.
If you’re looking for something more familiar, Miranda also offers street tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and tortas that are as authentic to Mexican tradition as you’ll find in this part of town.
But while those dishes are great, I’d recommend trying something from the Salvadoran side of the menu, especially the pupusas.
A pupusa is a round flat cake made from masa (ground corn) that’s stuffed with meats, beans, and cheese and griddled on the flattop. The shell has a chewy texture but is mild in flavor, allowing the insides to play a starring role.
Miranda’s offers a wide variety of combinations, allowing you to fill your pupusa with refried beans, pork, cheese, jalapenos, squash, and more. They’re all flavorful, but I’ve found the cheese options, which erupt with gooey, melty goodness, to be the most satisfying. The pupusas are best enjoyed with crunchy curtido (an acidic cabbage condiment) and homemade hot sauces. Each pupusa is roughly the size of a CD, so 2-3 makes for a reasonable meal.
The most fun version of this traditional Salvadoran street food is the playful Pupusa Loco. It’s the size of Captain America’s shield, stuffed with cheese, beans, shrimp, and pork, it’s a wonderful mix of creamy, salty, savory flavors.
Miranda also offers a host of traditional plates and platters, highlighted by the Miranda Platter. This massive meal comes with steak, chicken, shrimp, and sauteed veggies intended to be eaten fajitas-style with tortillas. Some of the proteins can be a touch overcooked and chewy, but they’re wonderfully flavored, and the beans were mildly sweet with a silky texture.
And breakfast lovers can rejoice at Miranda, as breakfast platters are available all day. The Desayuno Miranda beautifully showcases a traditional Salvadoran breakfast, starting with the tender, buttery scrambled eggs, which are cooked with sauteed veggies to add texture and sweetness. The plate also includes beans, slices of fresh avocado, and perfectly cooked plantains with a pleasant concentrated sweetness.
Some of the most fun discoveries come from the “Antojitos” (little cravings) portion of the menu, as these small plates and appetizers are a great way to try several new dishes and share with friends and family. The popular favorite is the Tamal de Elote, which combines the sweet flavor of cornbread with the consistency of a muffin, all with a crispy, deep-fried exterior.
The Riguas are delicious as well; they’re as if pancakes and cornbread were combined into one item. They’re soft, sweet, and buttery, with crispy caramelized edges.
The restaurant isn’t much to look at on the outside, but the interior is bright and vibrant, with radiant lights, plenty of greenery, and lively Latin music. The staff is incredibly friendly and eager to make menu recommendations to help you experience their cuisine.
The family is ultimately what makes Miranda special, especially the mother. Every recipe and flavor was developed by her, and you’ll find her working hard in the kitchen, but always ready with a smile. Restaurant life is hard and often thankless, but her joy and love for the craft radiates from the kitchen.
Miranda Omaha is one of the more interesting restaurants to open in the city in the past few years. It’s worth visiting for the pupusas alone, but the more I explore this menu, the more I found I’ve been in love with Salvadoran food for a long time. I just didn’t know it, and I needed Miranda to show me just how unique and beautiful this cuisine is.