MODERN LOVE
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★
District: Midtown
Vegan Spins on Familiar Classics
Perfect For: Vegan Options; Lunch; Casual Dining; Drinks; Happy Hour
Standout Dishes: Buffalo Cauliflower Wings; Pepperjack Steak Sandwich; Mac & Shrews
Some diners in Nebraska, a traditionally meat-and-potatoes state, might turn their noses up at a vegan restaurant, deeming it not worth their time.
That would be a true shame, because they’d be missing out on an absolute gem in Modern Love.
The idea of opening a vegan restaurant in a meat-loving locale was indeed a bold move by chef Isa Chandra Moskowitz, but her food quickly proved something Omahans couldn’t get enough of. Diners were so effusive in their praise of Modern Love that it not only had to move into a much larger space, but it also opened a second location in Brooklyn, NY.
It’s safe to say that people have taken notice: when vegan food is done well, it can be just as delicious as a meat-based dish.
Modern Love’s Omaha location at Midtown Crossing is very modern, upscale, and fun. It’s still not a huge space, but the added room is necessary. The servers are friendly and very knowledgable about the menu, which is helpful for new patrons unfamiliar with the cuisine. The servers clearly and patiently explain what was in each dish.
That’s necessary, because much of the menu might be foreign, especially to new diners. There are sandwiches made from chickpea cutlets, eggplant and olive lasagna, and risotto with oyster mushroom calamari. The menus are seasonal, so they frequently change. A few of the popular items, including the mac and shrews (roasted red pepper cashew cheese, roasted cauliflower, cornmeal crusted tofu, and kale) never leave the rotation.
Among the most interesting items is the Modern Cheeseburger. It has all the normal burger staples (pickles, onions, tomato), but it subs out beef for a lentil seitan patty and American cheese for cashew cheddar.
The seitan, a high-protein meat substitute made from wheat, has a surprisingly hearty, meaty texture. Blindfolded, I can’t confidently say I would immediately recognize the difference between it and beef.
The flavor is close to that of beef, but it’s not all the way there. It’s slightly savory, but it’s missing that fatty, salty taste that makes a traditional burger so great. Modern Love’s use of fresh vegetables help mask that loss in flavor and invoke burger nostalgia, tricking your brain into thinking you’re biting into beef.
The cheese was also a pleasant surprise. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not normal cheese. It’s pretty goopy and viscous, similar to jarred queso. The flavor is surprisingly close to cheddar, however, and it’s difficult to stop dipping fries into it.
Whichever sandwich you get, make sure you pair it with a side of French fries. These crispy potatoes are seasoned very well and are among Omaha’s finest, and that’s even before a dunk in the delectable harissa ketchup.
If it’s breakfast you crave, it’s really tough to beat Modern Love’s Breakfast Crunchwrap Vegan Supreme. Taco Bell lovers will recognize the delivery vessel, but even someone whose diet in college subsisted on Crunchwrap Supremes has to admit those don’t hold a candle to this version. A tofu scramble, when mixed with the other ingredients, is fluffy and pretty indistinguishable from eggs. A walnut chorizo adds crunch and mimics the warming spice of chorizo very well. And the tortilla was perfectly grilled, sealing in all the goodness and making this a perfectly portable lunch.
Whatever you hunger for, you’re making a mistake if you don’t start your meal off with an order of Cauliflower Wings. These cauliflower heads are the size of mini asteroids, and a plate of them is enough to satiate hungry guests until the entrees arrive. The cauliflower is deep fried to a perfect crisp, providing a pleasant, crisp barrier that one must pass through to find the meaty, tender cauliflower. They’re then doused in the preferred sauce.
The buffalo sauce is rich and buttery and has a surprising amount of kick, while the peanut sauce is more subtle with a touch of sweetness. Both are sure to get your meal off to the right start.
Modern Love might be a jarring introduction to vegan food for first-time diners. Some of the textures of flavors of the “proteins” match those they’re supposed to mimic better than others.
But whether you’re a vegan or a card-carrying carnivore, there’s something for you here. At the end of the day, delicious food is delicious, regarding if it has meat or choose or not.
And this diner, one who is very much not a vegan, is happy to eat here any day of the week.