MOUTH OF THE SOUTH
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★⭑
District: Legacy
Cajun & Southern Cuisine
Perfect For: Lunch; Casual Dining; Happy Hour
Standout Dishes: Kickin Chicken; Blackened Salmon; Boudin Balls
Cajun cuisine is beautifully unique. It’s bold, savory, and often spicy, heavily spiced with cayenne, garlic, and blackening seasoning. But while its prevalent in the southeast United States, there aren’t many places to enjoy Cajun food in Omaha.
That’s what makes Mouth of the South an important entry on the West Omaha scene. While it might not be on the level of other Cajun joints Herbe Sainte and Acadian Grille, it has several standout dishes that help introduce many Omahans to Cajun cuisine.
Mouth of the South’s profile has changed over time. It opened in 2014, but the original location burned down. It moved a few times and opened and closed a downtown location, but has now comfortably settled into the Legacy neighborhood off 168th & Center.
The space has a distinct all-are-welcome vibe to it, similar to what one might expect at Mardi Gras. The giant plate glass windows fill the restaurant with light, and the garage doors open up to a spacious patio. The dining room has unique light fictures and Southern and voodoo-inspired art, setting the mood for the Cajun experience.
All the expected Cajun classics are on the menu: shrimp and grits, po boys, etouffee, and red beans and rice are all present. But Mouth of the South also puts a Cajun spin on some nontraditional dishes, such as stuffing tacos with blackened or fried shrimp, serving a burger loaded with crawfish mac & cheese, and offering fish & chips with fried catfish.
It comes as no surprise that Jambalya, one of the staple dishes of Cajun cuisine, is present here, though the success of its execution comes and goes. The rice is slow cooked to a borderline creamy consistency with smoky, spicy, and earthy notes. The proteins, however, leave much to be desired. While the blackened chicken adds a nice kick, the andouille sausage, normally powerful in flavor, is surprisingly muted and bland. And the shrimp, while plump and juicy, are tough and overcooked, a disappointment considering the $9 upcharge to add them.
That’s a theme throughout most of the dishes at Mouth of the South—there’s a lot to like, but one or two elements hold each dish back from being elite.
The fatty, flaky fish in the Blackened Salmon is cooked very well, and the blackening seasoning adds not only spice, but a nice crust. The fillet itself is brilliant, especially when balanced with the tangy dijon cream sauce. But the dirty rice and vegetables are both bland and underseasoned, and the shrimp are again a bit tough.
The Louisiana Hot Sandwich is an excellent fried chicken sandwich, as the thigh remains moist and juicy while the breading adds a crunchy, well-seasoned exterior. Louisiana agave adds a nice sweetness to balance the funk of blue cheese, but the “hot” part of the sandwich’s name is almost completely missing. It’s much more sweet than heat.
The dish that bucks this trend is the Kickin Chicken (pictured in the header photo). The linguine in this pasta dish is cooked to pleasant toothsome texture and the chicken is tender. But it’s the rich, slightly sweet roasted pepper cream sauce that sets the dish off, and MOTS provides grilled bread on the side that’s perfect for sopping up every last morsel of the sauce.
The Boudin Balls are a strong appetizer. The deep-fried balls of sausage and rice are a bit dry on their own, but running the crispy orbs through the creamy, rich remoulade makes for a very composed, pleasing bite.
The sides, too, are a bit hit and miss. On the positive side is the Gouda Mac, which starts with a rich, nutty sauce that’s on the looser side. That liquid-y consistency allows it to slide into every crevice of the spiral cavatappi noodles, and the toast breadcrumbs add a crisp texture to each bite.
On the other side of the spectrum are the Fries, which are limp and don’t have much seasoning.
MOTS has an extensive drink menu with plenty of craft beer and cocktail options. The Old Fashioned is a solid representation of the classic drink, smoky and with a touch of citrus, though it’s a bit too sugar-y. The whiskey menu is extensive, though there are no prices listed. Common whiskeys like Jack Daniels are listed next to upper tier options, so you don’t know if your drink is going to cost $12 or $45.
The service is also a bit odd. The staff means well, but they appear a bit confused. On one visit, we had three different people ask our table what drinks we’d like within three minutes of us being seated. The attention is great, but the lack of communication makes for a bit of an odd experience.
That’s the common theme of Mouth of the South. There’s a lot to like here, and most dishes are really close to being excellent. I appreciate the effort the restaurant has taken to bring authentic Cajun food to Omaha, and it’s very good for the most part. A few minor touches on each dish hold it back from being elite, but if you want to experience Cajun food in west Omaha, this is a solid option.