NOLI'S PIZZERIA
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑
Districts: Blackstone; Central Omaha; Gretna
New York-Style Pizza
Perfect For: Lunch; Casual Dining; Takeout
Standout Dishes: Pepperoni Pizza; Polpette Pizza; Meatballs in Sugo
Water is arguably the simplest ingredients in any recipe. Rarely does the quality of this ultra-common element make a true difference in a meal.
Unless, that is, you’re at Noli’s Pizzeria The restaurant’s slogan, “It’s the Water”, stems from its unique backstory. The owner, Joel Marsh, wanted to accurately bring the classic New York slice to Omaha, so he had a New York friend send him a gallon of tap water. That sample was taken to an Omaha water center, where it was analyzed for elements such as mineral content. That company built Noli’s a filtration system that closely replicates the New York water, giving Noli’s as accurate a copy as you’ll find anywhere in Nebraska.
That’s a lot of work to put into just one element of the dough. But that dedication to the craft is what makes Noli’s a special pizza joint.
That water produces a stronger, tougher dough that, after a quick date with one of Noli’s 900-degree ovens, becomes a firm, chewy outer crust while leaving the inside loose and floppy, which makes Noli’s slices very foldable. The wood-fired cooking process produces brilliant charred spots and bubbles for bitterness and texture, respectively.
And when you combine that brilliant crust with a tangy, vibrant red sauce and gooey, salty pops of mozzarella cheese, you have the start to an excellent pizza.
From that base, diners can create a wide variety of experiences. You can choose one of Noli’s 10 specialty pies or create your own from a vast list of 28 ingredients. Pizzas can be ordered by the slice, as a traditional 18-inch pie, a square pizza, or a trimmed down 12-inch individual pie (gluten free crust is also an option).
With so many options, you may be tempted to load on the toppings. I’d advise against this, however; at Noli’s, the base elements of the pizza (crust, cheese, sauce) are so great, you don’t want to bury them under a mound of other ingredients. Pick out one or two that match your palate and best allow pizza’s most basic elements to stand out.
For instance, consider adding some pepperoni to induce a salty, slightly smoky flavor that explode with each bite. Noli’s uses some of the larger cuts of pepperoni I’ve seen on a slice, ensuring that nearly every bite features that fatty pop that makes pepperoni so beloved.
Or go for the Polpette pizza, which crumbles heavily seasoned, zesty meatballs all over each slice to balance out the sharpness of red onion. Simple, yet delicious. For something a bit more creative, try the Caprese, which mounds of luscious, creamy fresh mozzarella, sweet balsamic glaze, and a drizzle of rich garlic olive oil.
Noli’s tomato sauce is on the sweeter side, which makes the Margherita Pizza a bit heavy on the sugar. When you reach bits with that gooey, milky fresh mozzarella, everything is in good balance, but the basil alone struggles the combat the sweetness of the sauce. It’s still a good representation of a margherita pie, but far from the best in Omaha.
Noli’s also uses a lot of shredded mozzarella on its slices, which can leave some quite greasy. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing—it’s pizza, after all—but worth noting.
The slices don’t quite match the behemoths you’ll find at other Omaha pizza joints like Virtuoso or Lighthouse, but they’re large in their own right; two is likely enough to handle an appetite, especially if you add an appetizer.
Noli’s has several salads and pastas, as well as appetizers of garlic knots, cinnamon knots and Meatballs in Sugo. The meatballs are delectable and perfectly seasoned. The notes of garlic and basil in the sugo sauce are brilliant and tie the dish together perfectly. As a bonus, dipping the crust from the pizza in the leftover sauce is a delightful experience. The Garlic Knots are a bit of. a miss, however, as they’re topped with roasted garlic that adds an odd sweetness to an otherwise savory dish.
The service is very quick. Appetizers typically within minutes of ordering, and the pizza usually isn’t far behind.
I’ll be honest—I’m no scientist. I have no idea how the quality of water truly affects Noli’s dough. What I can say with confidence, however, is that it results in a brilliant crust to lay the base for excellent pizza.