OKRA AFRICAN GRILL
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑
District: Aksarben
Fast Casual African Rice Bowls & Cuisine
Perfect For: Casual Dining; Lunch; Takeout
Standout Dishes: Nina’s Sweet Bread; Steak Kabobs Rice Bowl; Grilled Fish Fillet
The team at Okra African Grill was so excited to get started. With a talented creative chef at the control, a concept previously not seen in Omaha, and a good deal of excitement built up on social media, Okra opened its doors for the first time on March 14.
Two days later, as the Coronavirus’ spread across the nation reached Omaha, the city declared it unlawful for people to gather in groups of larger than 10 for safety reasons. It struck a significant blow to every restaurant, and even some of the city’s best were forced to close their doors.
It could have been a death nell for a newcomer. Yet, Okra pushed through the perceived setback and is putting out some tremendous food.
Okra is a labor of love for Nina Sodji, a native of Toga, Africa, who moved to America in the mid-90s. She opened an African grocery store in Omaha before attending and eventually teaching at the Metropolitan Community College culinary program. Even in my brief conversation with her, the love and passion she has for African cuisine was abundantly evident.
What separates Okra from Omaha’s other African restaurant—Chaima’s African Cuisine—is its customization. Though there are a few African specialty dishes such as Ablo, Jeloff Rice, and Peanut Butter Chicken, most diners opt for a rice bowl. Diners approach a Chipotle-style creation counter and build their bowl from red or white rice, 7 proteins, 4 sauces, and 13 toppings. Orders can also be placed online, and both methods are fast and efficient.
The red rice has a bit more spice and flavor than the traditional white, but both are cooked well. The Roasted Lamb is tender and seasoned with just the right amount of salt. The Steak Kabobs are massive, perfectly chewy, and possess pleasant grill marks. Of the toppings, the corn (which is roasted) and the South African Grill Mix (bell peppers and onions) add nice pops of flavor.
Whatever you order, the portion sizes are quite large. They also feel very clean and healthy, so while you’re consuming a lot of food, you likely won’t feel heavy or gross afterwards.
If you want to take the traditional entree route, you can’t go wrong with the Grilled Fish Fillet, which can be ordered with either cod or tilapia. The tilapia fillet is quite large and perfectly flaky, coming apart with the slight swipe of a fork. The fish is covered in a deliciously tangy tomato sauce and veggies for textural contrast. The provided Fried Plantains are bursting with sweet flavor and, unlike many I’ve had, aren’t mushy and greasy.
No order is complete without a glass of Okra’s Ginger Lemonade. It’s quite sweet, but not too much so, and the sugar is balanced nicely by a slight heat from the ginger. And I highly recommend polishing your meal off with an order of Bread Pudding. It’s simply divine.
Another ordering hack: get a loaf of Nina’s Sweet Bread to go. The loaf is enormous, a giant pillow of sweet flavor. Think of the best King’s Hawaiian roll you’ve ever had—now imagine it homemade, softer, and with twice the flavor. It’s absolutely delicious.
Most bowls and entrees are about $8-12, a perfectly acceptable range for the quality and quantity of food.
For all the restaurants in Omaha, Okra manages to deliver a unique, fun experience. Diners can try something new and different or fall back on familiar items. Either way, Nina succeeds in delivering the flavors of her homeland, and Omaha’s restaurant scene is better for it.