PHAT JACK'S
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★⭑
District: Lincoln
BBQ
Perfect For: Casual Dining; Takeout; Lunch
Standout Dishes: Psycho Sandwich; Burnt Ends
Expansion can truly be a double-edged sword for restaurants, especially those that start with such humble beginnings. It’s always great to see a small hole in the wall achieve enough success to grow and move, but there exists a nagging question in the back of the mind: can the restaurant maintain the service and quality that originally made it great as it expands?
This became an issue for Phat Jack’s. Its humble location off Cornhusker Highway was a hidden gem, a place that sat only about 30 customers. Owner Matt Burt and his family did all the cooking and serving and, though the building was cramped and lines quickly formed, it didn’t matter. You were willing to wait because you knew an excellent meal was on its way.
I think Phat Jack’s lost some of that magic when it moved to its new location in 2017. The new space is very impressive and much more modern than the old digs. There are TVs, a full-service bar, and at least twice the amount of seating as before. There’s no doubt the space is an upgrade.
But in my visits, I’ve found the quality of the food has suffered a bit. In its heyday, Phat Jack’s was the barbecue restaurant in Nebraska, but it’s been passed by some newcomers.
Employees outside the family are now trusted to do some of the cooking and serving and, while I don’t fault their efforts, the product just isn’t quite the same.
No menu item displays this shift more clearly than the Burnt Ends. Prior to the move, the burnt ends were one of my favorite food items in the state, period. I had friends who would make the drive from Omaha—or farther—simply to get their hands on these flavor bombs. Phat Jack’s takes the fatty end of the brisket and left in the smoker a bit longer, producing wonderfully succulent cubes of fatty goodness. They were beyond tender, tremendous pillows that basically dissolved in your mouth and assaulted your taste buds with smoky flavor.
I hope I’ve just had a few bad experiences and the burnt ends have retained their legendary status, but on my last few visits they just aren’t at the same level. I’ve found them to be dry and firm. They’re still good and I have no problem with ordering them, but they no longer achieve legendary status.
That theme remains for the other meats. None are bad by any means, but there are better options in the state. The Brisket is the best option, as it is moist and has a hint of a smoke ring creeping around the outside.
The Ribs are dry and a bit tougher than I prefer, and they need some sauce to wake them up. Ditto for the Pulled Pork.
The sandwiches, especially the Psycho, remain a real treat, mostly for their sheer size. You’d have to have an anaconda’s jaw to get your mouth around one served as is. There’s so much meat packed between the soft Rotella’s bun. You can scrape off about 1/3 of it and still have a perfectly-sized sandwich with a side of meat, which is a true win.
I know this negative comes off as a bit negative, but my intention is not to besmirch Phat Jack’s. It’s still a very good barbecue restaurant, one of the best you’ll find in Nebraska.
I just can’t stop reminiscing about what it once was.