SAKURA BANA
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★
District: Aksarben
Sushi & Japanese cuisine
Perfect For: Lunch; Casual Dining; Takeout
Standout Dishes: Okonmiyaki; Sushi Deluxe; Futomaki
These days, sushi joints pepper the Omaha landscape, but that wasn’t the case in 1986 when Sakura Bana opened in Omaha. Originally named Sushi Ichiban, the restaurant opened the door for Blue, Umami, Isla Del Mar, and all the fantastic sushi joints that followed in its footsteps. So many Omahans have wonderful memories of eating here.
But as the owner moved into his 70s, it was time for a new era. Enter Dave Utterback, a James Beard Award finalist, the genius behind Yoshitomo and Koji, and one of the best sushi chefs in America. Dave bought the joint with dual goals of adding traditional Japanese dishes to the menu while preserving the restaurant’s rich history and keeping the dishes Omahans had come to love.
The result isn’t a world-class sushi joint like Yoshitomo, but a comfortable, family-friendly abode that is a great introduction to sushi and Japanese cuisine. Dave pays homage to Sakura Bana’s past while also pushing it into the future.
Located just off 72nd and Dodge, Sakura Bana is a comfortable, cozy restaurant with plenty of modern booths and a sushi counter where diners can watch their rolls and nigiri be constructed. The menu is a mix of expected rolls (California, Rainbow), creative options, sashimi, nigiri, bento boxes, rice bowls, and noodle dishes. If you want a taste of Japan, you can probably find it here.
The sushi is the headliner, though, and while these rolls won’t redefine what you think of sushi, they’re solid options and a perfectly acceptable introduction to this part of Asian cuisine. The rice is sticky and well-packed, the fish tastes fresh and vibrant, and the rolls are thoughtfully constructed with ingredients that complement each other well.
The Futomaki is a simple but excellent example of Sakura Bana’s offerings. There’s nothing ground-breaking here, but the combination of rice, crab, creamy avocado, tamago (a firm, subtly sweet egg), and crunchy masago (fish eggs) makes for a pleasurable experience.
Similarly, the California (crab, avocado) and the Tekka (tuna) rolls won’t blow your mind, but the firm, chewy nori is a nice contrast to the tender, fresh fish.
If sushi is your goal, the way to go is one of the platter options, which allow you to sample both rolls and several pieces of nigiri. The Sushi Deluxe (featured in the header photo) offers eight pieces of nigiri, each providing its own unique flavor profile, alongside two sushi rolls. The fish doesn’t pop with flavor like it does at Yoshitomo, but it’s plenty tasty.
Honestly, the traditional Japanese dishes stand out at Sakura Bana more than the sushi, and none more so than the Okonomiyaki. This savory pancake is fried and served in a skillet, giving it a crispy exterior to go allow with its flaky layers. Topped with bacon, Japanese mayo, and tonkatsu sauce, it has a delightful combination of salty, fatty, and umami that just makes the dish sing.
The Negimayaki is another winner, as thin slices of beef are marinated in teriyaki and grilled, then wrapped around scallions for a sweet, slightly salty bite.
The Gyoza are plump, pork-filled dumpling with a pleasant chew and a crispy exterior. And the Ika Ten (fried squid) have a bouncy texture, pleasantly light tempura batter, and salty dipping sauce.
The Shishito Peppers have a mild spice combined with sweet/salty sauce and a nice toasty flavor. Sakura Bana is well known for its Carrot Ginger Salad, which has a disappointing base of iceberg lettuce that’s enlivened by the slightly sweet, creamy dressing.
As is, Sakura Bana is a pleasant restaurant that’s driven by nostalgia. The dishes are solid, but it’s customers’ memories and blasts from the past that make the restaurant beloved.
That’s what excites me about Dave’s ownership. The man has mastered sushi like few in the Midwest (even America) ever will, but he’s not trying to recreate Yoshitomo at Sakura Bana. He understands the reasons customers love the place, and he doesn’t want to change that. But he also sees the opportunity to grow and evolve portions of the menu, especially the Japanese dishes, offering options you won’t find anywhere else in Omaha.
This restaurant has both a rich history and tons of potential, making it one to watch and visit frequently as Dave’s fingerprints become more evident.