SEMO PASTA + WINE
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★★
District: Fremont
Handmade Pasta & Proteins w/ Farm-to-Table Approach
Perfect For: Date Night; Drinks; Upscale Dining; Casual Dining
Standout Dishes: Fusilli + Bison Ragu; Radiatore + Sausage Ragu; Blood Sausage
Drew Statz always had an attraction to pasta. Growing up, he’d eat bowlfuls of boiled noodles mixed with a knob of butter. And when he reached culinary school and realized how simple fresh pasta was to make—it’s just water, flour, and eggs, and some recipes even omit the third ingredient—he truly fell in love.
In many ways, the restaurant he and his wife Michelle opened perfectly embodies the ethos of pasta. Semo Pasta + Wine presents elegant plates, but not in a traditional fine dining form. It’s a homey, casual restaurant that has three pillars:
- Handmade pasta
- Strict farm-to-table approach
- An emphasis on personable hospitality
And just like pasta, those three ingredients come together to make something beautiful—in this case, one of the best restaurants in the extended Omaha area.
Located on the main strip in downtown Fremont, Semo’s menu includes proteins, seafood, and vegetables grown within a rock’s throw of the restaurant. But the heart is the pasta, and few—if any—do it better than Semo. All pasta is mixed, kneaded, rested, and extruded in house; Drew would rather sell a kidney than used pre-made pasta. His passion results in tender noodles that have just the right amount of toothsome bite to them.
Semo also puts a great deal of thought into which noodles pair best with particular sauces, proteins, and cheeses. Thick, wide noodles like pappardelle partner with heartier sauces, while thinner noodles are paired with cream sauces. The menu changes by the day, but here are some examples of what to expect:
- Fusilli & Bison Ragu: The sauce has a nice sweetness infused with the flavor of fat of braised meat, and the chunks of ground bison nestle perfectly into the ridges of the corkscrew fusilli pasta. Toasted hazelnuts add a nice crunchy element.
- Pappardelle + Bolognese: Long, flowing sheets of tender pasta are paired with a rich, hearty meat sauce.
- Basil Spaghettini: Tender ribbons of gorgeous, herbaceous pasta are joined with olive oil, succulent shrimp, and beautifully toasted bread crumbs for a melt-in-your-mouth medley of flavors and textures.
- Spaghetti + Prosciutto: This is one of the creamiest, cheesiest pastas you’ll find in just the right ways. There’s a small mountain of parmesan reggiano on top, but fresh snap peas and crispy prosciutto use sweetness and salt, respectively, to cut through all the dairy.
The beauty of Semo is that your options will vary every time you come in. There may be a few staple dishes that frequent the menu, but Semo’s dishes are dictated by what produce is fresh, in season, and available to local farmers. Semo crafts its dishes based off what they receive, which can vary widely based on the time of year, the amount of recent rain, and other environmental factors.
One visit might feature plump, sweet beets atop an herbaceous pesto and buttermilk vinaigrette. If the restaurant received an abundance of kale, your dishes could be finished with a zesty, vibrant salsa verde.
This place takes the “farm to table” buzzword and actually puts it into practice.
While Semo is best known for its pasta, it excels in protein cookery, as well. The best example is the Blood Sausage + Polenta, which converts diners wary of the dish’s name into instant fans. The sausage doesn’t have the iron-y taste one might fearfully assume; rather, it’s savory with a slightly sweet aftertaste, and pairing it with the creamy polenta makes for a wonderful bite.
And if any form of octopus is on the menu, don’t hesitate; just order it. Semo cooks the tentacle to a perfect tender consistency, bouncy but with minimal chew, and pairs with delightfully bright and acidic lemon aioli.
As polished as Drew is with pasta and proteins, Michelle is just as proficient with bread. From the chewy, oily focaccia to the tangy, crispy-crusted sourdough, the bread as Semo is fantastic eaten alone or slathered with fennel butter. It reaches an even higher level on the Artisan Cheese + Honeycomb appetizer, allowing you to top the bread with interesting cheeses (such as triple cream brie), slabs of local honeycomb, and jams that vary based on the seasonality of the fruits.
Clearly, if you’ve read this far you understand Semo’s food is outstanding. But even if it served Olive Garden-level fare, it would be worth visiting. The commitment to hospitality is that strong.
Drew and Michelle are devoted to making each individual feel special, and you feel that attention to detail. Servers strike up interested conversation with you and remember your name on return visits. Sommelier Dan Harrington is available to provide thoughtful wine or cocktail pairings to complement your dishes.
Semo is a small, thin restaurant, probably suited to fit a max of 60 people. There’s an open kitchen that allows you to watch your meal be prepared if you wish.
All these factors, from the careful selection of local ingredients to the labor of handmade pasta to the personal approach give Semo an intimate, personal feel. A table isn’t just another ticket on the rack; it’s an opportunity to create a memorable experience for a group of people.
That all leads up to this final point, and what I feel makes Semo truly special: you’ll remember each visit here. Whether you come on a casual weekday dinner with a friend or an awaited date night, you’ll be able to recall what you ate, how the server treated you, and how you felt leaving Semo.
That’s what special restaurants do, and Semo absolutely qualifies.