SEMO SHOWS OFF IN INAGURAL RH DINNER
I’ve been a big fan of chef Drew Statz for years now, and I think he’s one of Omaha’s rising culinary stars. That talent was fully put on display when he opened Semo Pasta + Wine in the summer of 2023, combining his dedication to fresh, handmade pasta, local ingredients, and exquisite protein cookery to create a spot well worth the drive to Fremont for.
I’d long been thinking about ways to continue to grow the Restaurant Hoppen brand and further shine a light on Omaha’s restaurants, and a personalized tasting menu seemed like a great next step. Semo was perfect—it’s a smaller, intimate restaurant, but one that creates amazing food and is familiar with this type of upscale setting. And when I approached Drew with the idea, he couldn’t have been more on board.
But when the dinner commenced Wednesday, Nov. 29, I was floored by how fun it was. The food was wonderful; I had no doubt that would be the case. But Semo’s hospitality and environment created a space for 20 devoted lovers of the Omaha food scene to gather and geek out together.
There will be future Restaurant Hoppen dinners, so follow me on Instagram to stay up to date on them. But I have to tell you about this inaugural one and how Semo made it special.
The Atmosphere
A long, narrow restaurant, Semo gives off a cozy, intimate feel on a regular night of service. But that vibe was amped up further for this dinner, as the smaller tables were pushed together to create one communal gathering place.
Of the 20 attendees, 15 were complete strangers to me coming into the night. But by meal’s end, I had gotten to know everyone to some extent, and we had phenomenal conversation with those close to us. The dinner lasted nearly 4 hours, but it didn’t feel long or drawn out. Part of that was due to the company—I can’t tell you how much fun it was to converse with people who are as big of food nerds as I am—but Semo’s brick walls, bright lighting, and open kitchen created the feeling we were eating in someone’s home dining room, not a restaurant.
The Food
Previous visits to Semo had me confident the food would be special, but the creative whimsy and technical skill that Drew and his team showcased brought awe with each dish. Here are the six courses we were served:
- Canapes: These bite-sized delights each shone in their own way. The Carbonara Gougere transported the rich, cheesy flavor of the pasta dish into a bacon-studded parmesan biscuit. The Pate + Brioche made a sandwich out of sweet brioche and savory, rich pate. And my favorite bite of the night was the Cubano Rillette, which took the complex flavors of my favorite sandwich and stuffed them into a deep-fried ball.
- Steak Tartare: The raw steak was diced into consistent squares and loaded onto a homemade naan bread with tzatziki sauce, dill, and pickled onions. This was the perfect mash-up of tasting menu and hole-in-the-wall gyro joint.
- Angolotti: Long, slender pasta sleeping bags were stuffed with a sweet butternut puree and paired with rabbit confit, raspberry gel, and toasted pumpkin seeds. It was Thanksgiving, but in pasta form.
- U10 Scallop: Seared to a brilliant caramelization on one side, the scallop was cooked to tender, buttery perfection. But the real star of the plate was the tart, savory lemon sauce, which I’d pay $15 for a 4 oz. jar for. It took all my willpower not to lick the plate.
- Bison Short Rib (pictured above): Normally at tasting menus, the portions are smaller so you can consume more courses. But Semo went big with this course, presenting each guest with a Flintsone-sized bison rib. The bison, courtesy of the ever brilliant Central Nebraska Buffalo, was tender, savory, and slightly sweet, and it was one of the better pieces of meat I’ve ever consumed.
- Single-Origin Chocolate S’mores: Few desserts are more humble and sloppy than the s’more; how do you create a messy campfire treat in a fine-dining setting? If you’re Semo, you set a block of rich dark chocolate, a sweet hazelnut ice cream, and a crumbly butternut crumble atop a bed of bruleed marshmallow. I love traditional s’mores, but I’ll struggle to have a normal one again without thinking of this upscale version.
Typically with a tasting menu, there are one to two courses that truly shine, a few others that thrill, and a maybe one that’s just OK. There was no miss here. The Cubano Rillette, Bison Short Rib, Agnolotti, and S’mores were all clear home runs, and there was no course that brought up the rear. If I had to choose, I’d probably say the Steak Tartare was my least favorite, and I still loved it.
The Set-Up
Drew and his team handled everything. They took reservations, designed the layout for the night, and paired each course with wines that accentuated the particular plate.
But what really impressed me was how Drew transformed my ideas, memories, and favorite dishes into reimagined versions of the classic. For instance, my wife’s favorite pasta dish is carbonara. Drew recreated the rich, cheesy, porky flavors of that plate in a flaky pastry form. My family’s go-to restaurant growing up was Feta’s Greek Restaurant, so Drew made a gyro, but in tartare form.
Every idea I presented him with, he replied, “Yep, we can do that,” and transformed it in a way I wouldn’t have even imagined. His communication throughout the set-up process was great, and I couldn’t recommend working with him more if you want to host some sort of a special dinner.
The Hosts
Drew is one of the friendliest, most gregarious humans I’ve met. He’s one of those people who seems like they never have a bad day, and his positive outlook and detailed presentation of the dishes and the accompanying wine was perfect. Drew also allowed me the space to get up and explain why each course was meaningful to me, which I think (at least I hope) added another layer to the dinner.
And I can’t say enough good things about the staff. They were extremely attentive, clearing plates and wine glasses and refilling water frequently. We felt at all times like the staff truly cared that we were having a terrific time.
Overall Takeaway
My love for Semo is well-known, and this restaurant will take great care of you with wondrous food and standout hospitality whenever you visit. You don’t need a special occasion or a tasting menu to have a memorable meal here.
But if you have the opportunity to attend one of Semo’s wine dinners, I highly recommend doing so. These coursed meals allow the staff to show off their creativity, cooking prowess, and ability to pair food with wine. And if you want to host a special event with friends, get in touch with Semo. Drew is a pleasure to work with, and his adaptability and professionalism are top of the line.
Bottom line: Nov. 29 is a night I will never forget. I owe that to the people who came out to try something new. I owe that to my wife, who is supportive beyond belief.
And I owe that to Semo, for creating an atmosphere and a menu that took my expectations, balled them up, and crushed them over the left field wall.