SHUCKS FISH HOUSE
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★
District: Downtown Omaha; Legacy
Fresh Seafood
Perfect For: Lunch; Casual Dining; Happy Hour
Standout Dishes: Jambalaya; Deep South Risotto; Po Boys
When a restaurant in the middle of the country declares it serves fresh seafood, it’s fair to raise an eyebrow. Omaha is more than 1,000 miles from an ocean, and Lake Zorinsky isn’t exactly delivering premium shrimp and crab legs.
But in 1979, Nebraska native Greg Lindberg went to great lengths to bring the real deal to Omaha, driving a refrigerated truck filled with shrimp and oysters up from New Orleans and selling at the corner of 70th and Dodge. Skeptical visitors questioned the product, but Lindberg won them over and fought the doubters by naming his company “Absolutely Fresh Seafood”.
Cleary the man did something right, because that food truck has grown into a mini-empire. The Absolutely Fresh Seafood Market now has a permanent home just off 120th and Pacific. It’s connected to the first Shucks Fish House, which has opened two more locations in the Legacy and Downtown areas.
While there may have been original apprehension about Lindberg’s product off the bat, it has since completely disappeared.
There’s a reason the line typically stretches out the door. The menu is stocked with delicious options, ranging from shrimp and oyster po boys to crab cakes, calamari, salmon, risotto, shrimp etouffee, fish and chips, pastas, and more. Choosing a single item is basically the punishment of Dante’s third circle of hell: you make a decision, then pop back to the menu and weigh the other options again and again. It doesn’t help that the restaurant offers daily specials, only adding to the consternation.
The Jambalaya is among the best I’ve ever had. The plate is stuffed full of spiced rice, enormous chunks of chicken, andouille sausage, and shrimp. It’s spicy enough to satisfy those craving heat without turning off more sensible diners. The chicken is plump and tender, the shrimp are cooked perfectly and the sausage adds that touch of spice to complement the rice. The portion size is massive, likely too much for one meal, but it’s so delicious, you can’t help but house the entire plate.
The Deep South Risotto is similarly excellent, creamy and fatty in all the right ways. The shrimp are plentiful, and the andouille sausage shows up to add pops of spice. The dish carries just the right amount of heat, and the green beans add a welcome freshness.
The Po Boys, which comes with multiple seafood options either fried or sauteed, are delicious, but a complete mess. The remoulade is bursting with spicy flavor and is well distributed, but it soaks into the soft roll. Were the roll toasted, I don’t think this would be a problem. But as is, many napkins are sacrificed during the consumption of these sandwiches.
There could be more lobster chunks in the Lobster Bisque, but those present are tender and bursting with flavor. The soup itself is creamy and decadent, with just enough butter to toe the line between ultimate flavor and descending into fatty grossness.
The best dish of the bunch, however, might be the New England Lobster Roll (pictured in the header photo). Several things about this dish stand out: Shucks uses large, perfectly tender chunks of lobster, and plenty of them. They’re lightly dressed with mayo (rather than slathered), which allows the sweetness of the lobster to shine. And the toasted hoagie roll makes for the perfect texture companion to the soft lobster. Each bite is more wonderful than the last.
When it comes to appetizers, the Onion Rings are a sure crowd pleaser. Shucks’ version uses enormous rings, which are fried perfectly, and the added honey mustard sauce is brilliantly tangy. For more adventurous diners, the rare Ahi Tuna has a nice salty crust and works well with the provided spicy soy sauce.
Shucks is on the pricier side, as most entrees cost at least $15 and most sneak into the mid-20s. But that’s really no surprise when purchasing fresh seafood in the middle of the country.
If you don’t want to fight the lines, the Absolutely Fresh Seafood Market has you covered with just about any seafood option you could desire. The service is friendly and helpful, and the options are endless and fresh.
I don’t blame Omahans for being skeptical of fresh seafood in our fine city, but I advise them to check out Shucks. It has the best seafood in Omaha, and it will change your mind.