SQUARE DONUT

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑

Donut shop

Perfect For: Breakfast/Brunch; Casual Dining; Takeout

Standout Dishes: Maple Bacon Donut; Raised Glazed Donut

There are several aspects that set Square Donut apart from any donut shop in Omaha, and they come in waves from the moment you enter the door.

Atmosphere: a glamorous, chic vibe bucks the traditional, simple decor of a donut shop. With seating areas, a bright, welcoming case, and pink everywhere, it’s readily apparent this isn’t your grandpa’s donut haunt.
Shape: while the square appearance affects neither consistency or taste, it’s visually arresting and immediately grabs one’s attention.
Dough: as soon as your teeth pass through on your first bite, you know you’re in for a different donut experience.
Story: that Square Donut is in Omaha is a minor miracle, a story so wild it’s hard to believe.

Because owner Elizabeth Pooley doesn’t really like donuts—or, at least, she didn’t use to.

That all changed when she bit into a life-changing donut during a visit to Auburn, Ala., to visit her daughter, then a college student.

“It put me in shock,” she said on the Restaurant Hoppen podcast.

A few months later, the small-town donut shop went up for sale. Elizabeth originally had no interest, but she couldn’t get the idea out of her head. Eventually, this long-time entrepreneur but first-time restaurateur purchased the recipes and equipment, and Square Donut was born.

And Omaha’s AM food scene leveled up in the process.

The base of nearly every donut here is the same: a square raised dough that is so light and airy it’s almost shocking upon first bite. The exterior has just a touch of crisp from the fry, while the interior is pillowy and soft. The dough itself doesn’t have much sweetness; that comes from the variety of glazes, frostings, and toppings Square Donut offers, ensuring the donuts don’t get too sweet.

The Glazed Yeasted Donut is perfect in its simplicity. The puffy, pillowy dough receives a light glaze that keeps it from being a sugar bomb. It’s subtle and brilliant.

Of the 44 donut variations that occupy Square Donut’s case, most are of the square, raised origin. The different options start simple, such as those with chocolate icing, which adds a rich gooey-ness. But Elizabeth sees donuts as a blank canvas, and she isn’t afraid to get creative.

“I look at donuts like potatoes or eggs,” she said. “You can do whatever you want with them. You can make them sweet. You can make them beautiful. You can make them classic. It is endless.”

Maybe the best example of this is the Maple Bacon Donut (pictured in the header photo), which tops the beautiful donut with a rich, gooey maple glaze and what seems to be two pigs worth of thick, crispy bacon chunks. It’s a delicious stop at the intersection of sweet and savory.

The vast roster hits all corners of the donut spectrum. The Apple Fritter is chewy and luscious, a combination of cooked-down apples, cinnamon, and a sweet glaze. The Square Jane is filled with light Bavarian cream, causing each bite to bring forth an ooze of the light, vanilla-flavored custard.

Square Donut also offers a special donut each month based on an upcoming holiday or the flavors that currently interest Elizabeth and her staff. The Creme Brulee donut is a particular hit that customers wait on bated breath to see again.

Square Donut’s Cake Donut is heavier and denser than the raised version, and its dough also comes with a subtle sweetness. They’re tender and enjoyable, but they don’t stand out like the brilliant yeast versions do.

What you won’t find at Square Donut is overly sweet donuts. This shop allows the quality of the dough, which is handmade each day, to be the star. So while there’s certainly sweetness present in these treats, you don’t need to fear a sugar rush.

Whichever donut you choose, you can rest assured it will be scratch-made. There are no frozen doughs or pre-prepared products here; each batch of dough, from creation to exiting the fryer, takes three hours.

Square Donut is doing everything themselves, and you taste that extra effort.

So whether you want to put together a custom order for a special occasion or you just need to satisfy a donut craving one morning, Square Donut has what you’re looking for. Stop into this shop off 156th and Maple to experience delicious confections and/or delight the office with a surprise.

Just don’t expect the usual donut at Square Donut. This shop is delivering something entirely unique, and the result is some of the best donuts in Omaha.