STAR DELI
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑
District: Benson
Creative Sandwiches & Soups
Perfect For: Casual Dining; Takeout; Lunch
Standout Dishes: Peach N’ Pork; Cubano; Jalapeno Popper Grilled Cheese
What makes Star Deli, a humble hole-in-the-wall in the heart of Benson, such a fun sandwich shop is that it has something for all palates. If you’re looking for traditional cold cuts or a classic BLT, Star Deli has you covered.
But if you want some off-the-wall flavor combinations, sandwiches you’ve never heard of, or even multiple meatless choices (that actually taste good!), Star Deli is happy to oblige there, too.
Blink and you’ll miss the restaurant, located just off 61st and Maple on the main drag in Benson. It’s a quaint order-at-the-counter shop without many frills. There are a few tables and some counter seating, though most diners prefer to get their meals to go.
The decor is minimal, but what does exist is inspiring. Star Deli displays and sells the work of local artists, giving the shop a familiar, neighborhood flair.
The menu boasts more than 20 options that reach all across the sandwich realm. There are sandwiches with international origin (Cubano and Pork Carnitas), regional delicacies (Muffuletta and The Rachel, the restaurant’s take on a Reuben), and sandwiches your mom might’ve packed in your lunch as a kid, but properly chef’d up.
Each can be ordered either on a white or wheat hoagie, which is toasted to achieve a nice crisp on the exterior. The long split roll is soft and has good chew, but veterans of the restaurant know to spend the extra dollar and upgrade to the crusty baguette, which not only adds a nice crunch but is also substantially larger.
What’s inspiring about Star Deli is its willingness to push the boundaries on flavor combinations between bread, and one of the best examples is the Peach N’ Pork. Few restaurants are bold enough to put fruit on sandwiches, especially the sweet, juicy peach.
But Star Deli balances the sugar in the peach slices with roasted pork loin and caribe peppers (similar to a jalapeno), and the kicker is a sweet/salty/spread-it-on-everything peach-bacon jam. The baguette soaks up all the glorious juices, ensuring none of that deliciously sticky jam escapes.
This sandwich sits squarely at the intersection of sweet, salty, spicy, and savory, making it one of Omaha’s best sandwiches.
Star Deli’s out-of-left-field creativity shines through on several other sandwiches, such as the Sweet Potato Avocado (complete with honey mustard vinaigrette), Spring Turkey (which employs blue cheese crumbles and strawberries), and the BBQ Shredded Pork, which mixes pulled pig with cheddar, pickle slices, and caramelized onions.
In terms of sheer creativity, the Jalapeno Popper Grilled Cheese (1 of 8 vegetarian sandwiches on the menu) might take the cake. This sandwich slathers strawberry jam on the bottom bun and cream cheese on the top, stuffing melted cheddar, crispy onions, and fresh (de-seeded and de-veined) jalapenos inside. The result is a crunchy, creamy, tart, wild amalgamation of flavors that ties your brain in knots, but ultimately has you coming back for bite after bite.
Most sandwiches aren’t so wild, but have little twists that make them different from what you’re expecting. Take, for instance, the Cubano. Star Deli’s take on the famous sandwich subs out pulled pork for roasted pork loin, which lacks the mighty flavor of the shoulder. But the mild sweetness of the loin works well with the salty, smoky ham, and the fantastic dijon aioli brings delightful tang and moisture. It’s not a traditional Cubano but any means, but it’s one of Omaha’s better options.
If it’s a simpler sandwich you seek, go for the Long Beach Club, a turkey sandwich on steroids. The mildly sweet turkey and salty bacon dance a beautiful duet, while the gooey Swiss melts everywhere and the avocado adds a fatty creaminess. The sandwich can be a bit dry, but if you ask them to add mayo, it’s in perfect balance.
Or consider the Stampede, The cheddar gets a bit lost in Star Deli’s take on the roast beef sandwich, but with savory roast beef, juicy tomatoes, and a zesty horseradish mayo, this will make you swear off Arby’s forever (if you haven’t already).
The prices are fantastic, as you can either get a half sandwich for $7 or a full for $12. The full sandwich is more than enough to put most appetites in their place, and it you require a side, there are several salads and housemade French Onion Soup.
The restaurant can feel a bit dingy and unwelcoming, and the workers appeared more concerned with efficiency than friendliness on my visits.
And that’s OK, because Star Deli isn’t supposed to be a fine dining experience. It’s a grab-and-go sandwich shop putting fun spins on classics and offering completely new sandwiches. That makes it interesting and unique, regardless of which sandwich experience you seek.