THE DROVER
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑
District: Aksarben
Old-School Steakhouse
Perfect For: Upscale Dining; Date Night; Drinks
Standout Dishes: Whiskey Ribeye; Whiskey Filet
In my former life as a sports writer, I got the opportunity each summer to freelance during the College World Series in Omaha. Many of the newspapers and websites that covered CWS participants didn’t have the budget for travel and potentially two weeks of hotels and meals for their beat writers, so they outsourced the job to Omaha writers.
Not only was this a great source of added income, but it allowed me to have conversations with fellow scribes from across the nation. Many were making their maiden voyage to Omaha, but the national writers were quite familiar with our fine city. And they had one stated goal that got them particularly excited each year—get to The Drover.
Long known as one of Omaha’s best steakhouses, the Drover opened in 1969 as the Cork ‘N Cleaver before changing to its current name 10 years later. Located just off 73rd and Mercy Road, it combines a rustic, cabin-like exterior with a dark, relaxed interior that brings to mind a speakeasy from the 1920s. The complete lack of windows is a bit off-putting at first, but it also brings an air of exclusivity.
The restaurant’s signature is marinating its steaks in whiskey, which affects the texture more than the flavor. It breaks down some of the streak’s fibers, creating a buttery texture that barely needs a knife to cut. The whiskey flavor is just present enough to please a whiskey enthusiast such as myself without upsetting someone who isn’t a fan of the drink.
Every steak on the menu, including filets, sirloins, strips, ribeyes and prime rib can be ordered traditionally or with the boozy marinade. The restaurant also offers fried shrimp, salmon, kabobs, pork chops, chicken breast, and crab legs. All entrees come with a trip to the salad bar, complimentary bread and a choice of a side (baked potato, french fries, rice, vegetable of the day).
The Drover is most known for its filets, and the difference in the preparation depending on cooking process was fascinating. To explain, I’ll lay out my latest visit.
I prefer some red in my steak, so I ordered my Whiskey Filet medium rare. The 8-ounce steak arrived in a neat 4-by-4 inch circle. I’ve never had a steak so tender. It was absolutely delicious, and the texture was spot on. It’s become a cliche to say something “cuts like butter”, but that axiom applies when it comes to this steak. It was one of the best steaks I’ve ever had.
My wife ordered the same cut but medium well. To ensure the meat was more cooked, the waiter recommended butterflying the filet, cutting it in half. This technique took away a bit of the tenderness, but it created more surface area for the grilling, which added a brilliant char. It amazed me how such a slight change in order completely altered the final product, and I’m not sure which I liked better. Both certainly had their merits, and they were both delicious.
The salad bar, which allows unlimited visits, was high quality. The iceberg lettuce is chilled and crisp, and fresh ingredients such as fresh-cut onions, mushrooms and pepperoncinis are available. But the real MVP is the creamy, tart ranch dressing.
The Baked Potato is absolutely massive, probably eight ounces. The skin is slightly crispy, protecting the soft, delectable innards. While I chose the healthy route and just added salt and pepper, sour cream, butter, bacon and chives would only amplify this offering. The vegetable, which was asparagus on our visit, was firm and bland.
At most restaurants, the provided free bread is generally forgettable (excluding Texas Road House and that incredible honey butter). But that’s not the case at the Drover. This Honey Wheat Loaf is so soft and pillowy on the inside, and each bite contains a hint of sweetness. It doesn’t need the butter to be a tremendous appetizer.
The service is both attentive and incredibly knowledgeable. Our waiter visited our table frequently, refilling drinks and asking about our meal without being annoying. He knew the menu and the daily specials inside and out, and he explained why my steak and my fiance’s looked wildly different despite being the same order.
The Drover has a full-service bar that offers dozens of different wines and one of the finest Old Fashioneds I’ve had the pleasure of tasting. It’s also much appreciated that the items are not served a la carte. Most steaks fall in the $35-45 range, making for an expensive entree. But including the bread, side dish, and salad bar makes such the final bill more palatable.
It’s easy to see why the Drover has established such a strong reputation. Its old-school atmosphere, tremendous service, and fair prices are all pluses, but at the end of the day, it comes down to the steak. And this restaurant absolutely hits it out of the park.