THE DROVER
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★★
District: Aksarben
Old-School Steakhouse
Perfect For: Upscale Dining; Date Night; Drinks
Standout Dishes: Whiskey Ribeye; Whiskey Filet; Onion Rings
Even in a city that’s known for beef and steakhouses, there’s one that dominates the Omaha conversation above the rest: The Drover.
For 50 years, The Drover has built a reputation as not just one of Omaha’s top steakhouses, but one of its most-beloved restaurants. The hype around this place is so great that you wonder, “Can it really live up to all the hoopla?”
The simple answer: heck yes.
Long known as one of Omaha’s best steakhouses, the Drover opened in 1969 as the Cork ‘N Cleaver before changing to its current name 10 years later. Located just off 73rd and Mercy Road, it combines a rustic, cabin-like exterior with a dark, relaxed interior that brings to mind a speakeasy from the 1920s. Rather than having one large dining room, it has several smaller dining rooms, giving it a cozy, in-home feeling.
The restaurant’s signature is marinating its steaks in whiskey, which affects the texture more than the flavor. It breaks down some of the streaks’ fibers, creating a buttery texture that barely needs a knife to cut. The whiskey flavor is just present enough to please a whiskey enthusiast such as myself without upsetting someone who isn’t a fan of the drink.
Every steak on the menu, including filets, sirloins, strips, ribeyes and prime rib can be ordered traditionally or with the boozy marinade. The restaurant also offers fried shrimp, salmon, kabobs, pork chops, chicken breast, and crab legs. All entrees come with a trip to the salad bar, complimentary bread and a choice of a side (baked potato, french fries, rice, vegetable of the day).
The star of the show is the massive 14-ounce Whiskey Ribeye, which sets the standard for this beloved cut in Omaha. The steak is outrageously tender and juicy, but well-rested so the juices don’t spill out on first cut. The steak has a brilliantly caramelized crust and a good amount of fat running through it. It’s intensely savory and buttery all at once.
Also excellent is the Whiskey Filet, which is so tender it almost melts on the fork. The 8-ounce hunk of beef has a pleasant underlying sweetness to go with a deeply savory flavor.
The Drover is also famous for its salad bar, which is so retro it could’ve been transported from the 1980s (in a good way). The plates are chilled, ensuring the salad remains cool and refreshing. The lettuce is crisp and fresh, the vegetables are cut well, and the options include traditional options like tomatoes, onions, and croutons and more unique ones like marinated artichoke hearts and pickled beets.
But the real hero is the acidic, creamy ranch, with a nice dill profile. Passing on this dressing is a mistake.
The Drover offers several shareable sides for the table, and they’re arguably as good as the main dishes. The Onion Rings are as good as just about any in Omaha, as they’re hand-bread to achieve a crispy, craggly finish. They’re also seasoned to within an inch of their lives, so they’re not lacking at all in flavor.
And the Lobster Mac & Cheese is gooey and creamy in all the right ways. It has a good peppery heat, especially in the crispy breadcrumb topping. The noodles can be slightly overcooked, but the flavor is absolutely spot on.
The sides are all solid if not spectacular. The best of the bunch is the Baked Potato, which is absolutely massive, probably eight ounces. The skin is slightly crispy, protecting the soft, delectable innards. It’s good with just butter and salt, but getting it fully loaded with sour cream, chives, cheese, and bacon makes it a truly indulgent treat.
The Sauteed Mushrooms, cooked down in butter, are delightfully fatty and chewy with their natural earthiness. The Wild Rice and Asparagus are cooked well, but are pretty standard offerings.
At most restaurants, the provided free bread is generally forgettable. But that’s not the case at the Drover. This Honey Wheat Loaf is so soft and pillowy on the inside, and each bite contains a hint of sweetness. It doesn’t need the butter to be a tremendous appetizer.
The Old Fashioned is a delicious cocktail if you like whiskey, because this drink is very booze-forward. If there are any sugar or bitters present, they very much take a backseat. This cocktail will put some hair on your chest.
The service is both attentive and incredibly knowledgeable. Both waiters and cocktail waitresses visit your table frequently, refilling drinks and asking about your satisfaction without being overbearing.
Steakhouses have a way of getting expensive quickly, as any sides are an additional cost on top of the meat. But The Drover is different; the more expensive steaks cost about $50, but they come with bread, salad bar, and a side. And if you’re getting nearly a pound of perfectly-cooked meat, that’s a pretty good deal in my book.
It’s easy to see why the Drover has established such a strong reputation. Its old-school atmosphere, tremendous service, and fair prices are all pluses, but at the end of the day, it comes down to the steak. And this restaurant absolutely hits it out of the park.