THE OVEN
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★
District: Lincoln
Indian Cuisine
Perfect For: Lunch; Casual Dining; Date Night; Drinks
Standout Dishes: Stuffed Naan; Lamb Vindaloo; Shrimp Jalfrazie
Maybe I’m wrong in thinking this, but it’s always struck me that Indian food gets kind of a bad rap. It generally conjures up thoughts of butter chicken and loads of curry. It’s unfamiliar, and many are afraid to step outside their comfort zone.
Although I consider myself an adventurous eater who’s down to try just about anything, I must admit I had no idea what I was getting into when I first walked into The Oven a few years ago. Though this style of food was completely foreign to me, I kept an open mind, and I’m very glad I did.
The Oven has locations in both Omaha (downtown) and Lincoln (Haymarket). This review will focus on the Lincoln location, though my understanding is the Omaha one is very similar.
The Oven delivers delicious Indian cuisine you won’t find anywhere else in the state. The atmosphere is terrific. The lighting is kept low, giving it an upscale feel, but the walls are peppered with playful animal heads, masks and paintings that keep the restaurant from feeling stuffy.
The menu is littered with items that you won’t find at most restaurants, but it does a great job explaining each one, giving the diner a good sense of what he or she is ordering. There is an extensive offering of lamb, chicken, seafood, and vegetarian dishes, all offering varying levels of spice, vegetables, and curry.
Before digging into the entrees, however, one must simply start with some of The Oven’s fantastic Naan Bread. A leavened, oven-baked flatbread that slightly resembles a softer pita bread, naan is a staple of Central Asian/Indian food, and for good reason. Its doughy texture is tremendous, providing that bread flavor with a bit more chewiness.
The Oven’s traditional naan is fantastic, but the restaurant doesn’t stop there. It offers the traditional dish with a number of different toppings, including chicken, cheese and veggies. My personal favorite is the Chicken Tikka Bread, stuffed with cream cheese and chicken. It’s basically the best cheesy bread you’ve ever tasted. It arrives looking like a pizza, but the dough is so soft and there’s no sauce. Cooking it tandoor provides nice crispy bubbles of bitterness, which are accented perfectly by the cheese. It’s brilliant on its own, but accompanying it with the provided mint chutney elevates it even higher.
The beauty of The Oven’s extensive entree menu is that nearly every dish is available with whatever protein you wish, making orders relatively customizable. For most of my visits, the meat has been cooked to perfection. I have had one or two instances where it was a bit overcooked and chewy. But those occasions are few are far between. The rice has always been sof, and the sauces are flavorful and vibrant.
If you’re a fan of spice, it’s hard to go wrong with the Lamb Vindaloo. Large chunks of lamb are cooked in a slightly sour and spicy sauce. The heat is manageable however, especially when combined with the rice.
The Kadai Gohst cooks tender chunks of lamb with sautéed onions, tomatoes, garlic, jalapeños, ginger, and spices. The dish doesn’t look all that pleasing upon arrival, but this is a classic case of not judging a book by its cover. The lamb is succulent and perfectly tender, easily pulled apart with a fork. The tomato sauce is slightly sweet, and the dish was a true pleasure when served on a bed of rice.
The Shrimp Jalfrazie is even better. This dish combines jumbo shrimp with mild spices and is sautéed with fresh tomatoes. The shrimp are downright brilliant. They’re enormous and delicate and bring just the right combo of sweet and savory. The onions, peppers and tomatoes that accompany soak up the broth, which is buttery and delicious.
Each entree comes with a side salad or a bowl of Mulligatawny Soup, pureed lentils that are flavored with spices and garnished with rice and fresh cilantro. It has a peppery, slightly spicy flavor that is enhanced by adding the acidity of lemon juice. It’s not a knockout starter, but it’s certainly not a bad way to begin the meal.
All in all, The Oven is excellent, and Nebraskans are taking notice. The Haymarket location is typically packed around dinner time, especially on weekends, and for good reason. While Indian food may be foreign to most Nebraskans, it’s fantastic when done right, and The Oven is certainly doing that.
Those who fear the unknown are missing out on one of the best restaurants in Lincoln.
