THE PORTICO EXPERIENCE
Hoppen Hierarchy: ★★★★
District: Lincoln
Coursed dinner of handmade pasta, fresh bread, & hyperseaonl ingredients
Perfect For: Upscale Dining; Date Night
Standout Dishes: varies by meal
To call The Portico Experience a “meal” would be selling it far short.
To me, the word “event” is a much better descriptor. Because while the food is at the center of the gathering, a night at The Portico is about so much more than food and drink.
A quick backstory: Kevin Shinn is the masterful chef behind the beloved Lincoln restaurant bread & cup, which served handmade pastas, freshly baked breads, and dishes crafted with hyperseasonal ingredients. But the Haymarket landscape changed with the addition of the basketball arena, and Kevin’s wife came down with cancer, so he shut down bread & cup.
But hospitality is in Kevin’s blood—the man loves making people happy, and he’s damn good at doing it. And his next venture is something completely different than a restaurant; it’s an escape.
A night at The Portico consists of a 4-5 hour meal served in Kevin’s home, specifically his homey screened-in patio, adorned with string lights, a bevy of old license plates, and plenty of fans and blowers to protect you from the brutal Nebraska summers. Over that time, Kevin prepares and serves many courses (our meal was 12) and as many beers and craft cocktails as you desire.
He also invites you to, if they please, take a stroll through his backyard, where you can see much of the garden that grows much of the produce will be featured in your meal, as well as the beehive he uses to produce his own honey (which is eyes-rolling-back-in-the-head delicious).
Kevin’s ultimate desire is that guests would enjoy a leisurely, deliberate meal in which they enjoy each other’s company without rush or any worry of time. The clock moves at a different speed at The Portico; this is an intentional opportunity to slow down, experience community, and taste some phenomenal food.
The night begins with cocktail “hour”, which usually stretches into 2-3 hours (depending on how long you choose to recline). Kevin has a list of craft cocktails but is willing to go off menu to create what each diner desires. If you want to stick to the classics, his Old Fashioned is downright excellent.
He also serves several smaller bites during this time. Here was our sampling:
- Pasta Cracker: Two enormous pasta sheets were baked into crispy, breakable crackers and adorned with the perfect amount of salt.
- Blue-Cheese Stuffed Profiteroles: These soft, light-as-air balls of choux pastry are typically filled with sweet cream, but the tangy blue cheese was a perfect partner with the buttery dough.
- Charcuterie: Kevin’s version comes with three meats from animals he butchers himself. The Smoked Kielbasa had good spice, and the Brown Sugar Bacon had a nice crust (though it was quite fatty). The Tasso Ham was pretty mild but had a nice underlying smokiness.
- Blistered Shishito Peppers: Delicately smoky with a mild earthy flavor, these peppers were elevated with the nutty touch of toasted sesame seeds.
When you’re ready to move to the dining table, the meal really begins. Each Portico menu is different, as it’s based off what fruits and vegetables are in season, what Kevin picked up at the farmers market that week, and what’s inspiring him at the time. Dishes can be served family style or individually.
I feel confident that each experience at The Portico will involve some form of bread (which is practically a part of Kevin’s DNA), and I hope for your sake it’s his signature sourdough. Kevin simply places an enormous loaf in the middle of the table and encourages guests to rip it apart with their hands.
Served fresh out of the oven, the Sourdough was crusty enough to make an audible sound if you knocked on the outside, but was so tender and soft in the middle. The pillowy innards were so fluffy you almost want to curl up inside. The bread was perfectly chewy and had a slightly tangy flavor.
For our meal (this could change with each experience), Kevin prepared a homemade pesto tableside, mashing basil, garlic, and walnuts in a mortar and pestle while he conversed with us. The bread was heavenly alone, and the nutty, rich pesto took it to another level.
The rest of the menu is completely dependent on the season and Kevin’s whims, but whatever he has planned, I ensure you it’ll be special. Here’s what we enjoyed:
- Caprese: Fresh heirloom tomatoes drizzled with olive oil were paired with hunks of fresh mozzarella and basil leaves. It was an elevated version of the classic appetizer.
- Summer Melon: The cubes of cantelope and watermelon bursted with fresh sweetness on their own, but they were elevated by honey, Mexican crema, and flecks of crunchy sea salt.
- New Potatoes w/ Fried Sage: The potatoes were cooked perfectly, becoming almost creamy in texture, and seasoned well. But what made the dish were the fried sage leaves, which added interesting earthy, peppery notes.
- Elote: One of the best corn dishes I’ve tasted, the grilled kernels popped with bursts of natural sweetness. The crema added a creamy, fatty component, and Kevin subbed out cilantro for basil to add a nice sweet/savory note.
- Stuffed Peppers: The peppers were sauteed to achieve a delicate consistency and stuffed with savory merguez sausage and quinoa. The creamy blistered poblano sauce was the kicker.
- Eggplant Parmesan: The eggplant was cooked to a creamy consistency, but the hazelnut breading added nice crunch. An heirloom tomato ragout brought acidity, while peaches added sweetness and capers popped with salt.
- Peach Cobbler: Dessert perfection. This dish teetered on the edge of being too sweet without toppling over the edge. The crust was buttery and crusty, while the interior featured the sweet, fleshy peaches and a caramel-y custard.
Kevin is not only an excellent chef, but he’s also an incredible host. He’s always available and happy to talk with guests and answer questions about the food, his life, or anything else. He goes above and beyond the ensure each guest has a good time. For example, one of our diners is a cigar enthusiast and asked him about his collection. Kevin not only explained his side passion, but offered our friend a smoke.
And that’s a perfect example of what makes The Portico special. Not only is an excellent chef inviting you into his home, but he’s willing to go above and beyond to ensure your delight.
The Portico Experience is one table per night a few times a week, so Kevin’s calendar books up fast. But whatever wait you have to endure, I cannot recommend a night at The Portico highly enough. Direct message Kevin Shinn on Instagram about your interest to find and book your date.
It’s lame and cliche to call a meal magical. But in the case of The Portico, that might be the perfect adjective.