THE SURFSIDE CLUB
Hoppen Hierarchy:
★★
District: Missouri River
Fried Catfish & Chicken
Perfect For: Casual Dining; Happy Hour
Standout Dishes: Fried Chicken; Fried Catfish
Back in 2011, as a massive Missouri River flood washed out the restaurant, it was impossible for lovers of The Surfside Club to view the natural disaster as a positive. Located near the Neale Woods Nature Center, the riverside shack has been an Omaha stable since 1952. But the flood caused the restaurant to close and left its future in doubt.
But the owners weren’t about to let the restaurant die and managed to reopen it in 2013. While the original spot had plenty of charm and character, it was in dire need of some upgrades. It lacked an indoor bathroom and had little to no shade, leaving outdoor diners to roast in the summer heat. Everything about the restaurant, from the walls to the wobbly deck to the stained, dirty tables needed some help.
While the new and improved Surfside still bears resemblance to its former self, its renovation is much-welcomed. There is now an overhang on the deck to shade riverside diners, and the new tables surrounding the concert stage are mostly shaded as well. There is an outdoor bar to serve those wanting to check out Surfside’s many local concerts, and the indoor plumbing saves diners from resorting to a porta potty.
Yet the old charm remains. It’s a pure joy to have dinner on the river and watch boats zoom by (watch out for mooners), and the old-school menu remains mostly unchanged.
If you like fried food, this is the place for you. Basically every offering takes an oily bath in the frier, as the only offerings are fried catfish, chicken and a pork tenderloin (burgers are also available on weekends). Orders are taken at a counter and picked up when ready. All drinks and water refills are ordered inside. Surfside certainly keeps it simple.
The Catfish is the menu’s standout option. The large portion is lightly-battered, leaving a nice, crispy exterior without allowing the oil enemy to seep in and destroy the fish. The catfish itself is flaky and flavorful, and is ever better when topped with some hot sauce.
The sides are mostly forgettable. The Steak Fries are heavy on potato, which I enjoy, but they’re soft and don’t achieve that crispy bite from the frying process. The Corn Fritters are basically just deep-fried dough with a few kernels mixed in. They’re fine when dipped in the supplied honey, but they’re not much at all on their own. The Coleslaw is very heavy on mayo.
The Fried Chicken, which can be ordered in two or four-piece meals, is solid. The batter provides that perfect crunchy texture, though some pieces are a bit overcooked. The meat inside is still tender and tasty on its own. Between wings and breasts, the portion sizes can vary greatly.
Price is a bit of an issue. While the catfish is tasty, it costs $16, which is quite exorbitant considering it’s simply fried fish with average side dishes. The chicken is either $9 or $13, depending on how many pieces you order. It’s not terribly overpriced, but it’s also not ideal.
The service can be hit or miss. On our recent visit, some of our diners requested all white-meat chicken as opposed to dark. When the meal arrived and that desire was not fulfilled, the restaurant didn’t offer to fix the issue. They basically just said, “Deal with it,” and moved on.
The Surfside Club is far from a perfect restaurant, but its quirks and idiosyncrasies give it character. It’s fun to dine on the river, the concert atmosphere is welcoming and entertaining and the food is just good enough to justify a visit. It might not be a place to take a first date, but Surfside tends to be a good time. The flood of 2011 was a disaster that no one wants to see repeated, but it did help this restaurant make some meaningful and much-needed tweaks.