TWISTED CORK BISTRO

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★⭑

Bistro with Northwestern Seafood & Midwest Beef

Perfect For: Lunch; Date Night; Upscale Dining; Drinks; Happy Hour

Standout Dishes: Hawaiian Ahi; Sea Scallops; Seattle Cioppino; Scallion Pancakes

The idea of having an elite seafood restaurant in the middle of America is nearly laughable. Omaha is over 1,000 miles from the nearest ocean; expecting incredible fish seems like a pipe dream.

And yet the plates at Twisted Cork Bistro taste like the fish were swimming 10 minutes ago, not pulled from a freezer a few hours before service.

How is this possible?

The answer, according to Twisted Cork co-owner Darrell Auld, isn’t what you’d expect. The issue doesn’t come down to fresh vs. frozen as one might assume; rather, it’s farmed vs. free.

“Frozen salmon and fish is fine if you know the fisherman, as long as you know how it is caught and processed,” Darrell said on the Restaurant Hoppen podcast. “But farmed is always going to be different. We don’t care what it is: it’s wild. It’s not made by man.”

That sentiment is the guiding light of Twisted Cork’s menu. Everything, from the fish to the beef, chicken, and even the soft drinks (sorry, folks, no Coke products here) is fresh and natural. Artificial additives can check themselves at the door.

The result is a meal that can’t be experienced anywhere else at Omaha—except at Pacific Eating House, the Cork’s sister restaurant that Darrell and his wife Laura opened in 2020. But it was Twisted Cork that laid the groundwork back in 2008, when the Aulds moved to Omaha from Seattle and sought to serve the same dishes they’d grown accustomed to enjoying on the coast.

The result is a menu that truly highlights everything about the local food scene. Every main ingredient comes from a Midwest producer, from the steak (Certified Piedmontese) to the bison (Central Nebraska Buffalo), pork (Jon’s Naturals), chicken (Plum Creek Farms), and bread (Le Quartier).

Except, that is, the fish (not a lot of swordfish swimming in the Missouri River). That all comes from Hawaii and Seattle, but from producers that quickly catch, package, and deliver the fish. Twisted Cork is typically receiving its seafood a day after it leaves the water.

That’s why the Sea Scallops (featured in the header photo) taste unlike any other you’ll find in Omaha. Rich and buttery, they’re so supple you could cut them with a spork. Twisted Cork bronzes them to add both texture and sweetness, and the accompanied lemon-ginger beurre blanc brings acid and creaminess.

But the freshness of the fish might be best highlighted in the Hawaiian Ahi. Seared but served raw, the firm, rich flesh of the fish is the standout flavor. Twisted Cork pairs the fresh fish with a toasty miso-sesame-peanut vinaigrette and a sweet teriyaki drizzle, not to mention brilliantly cooked citrus sticky rice.

Go down the menu and you’ll experience the same fresh, bright elements in every dish. The Seattle Cioppino drops perfectly cooked sockeye salmon, shrimp, scallops, and mussels in a tomato-fennel broth, creating a rustic stew that tastes like the sea.

That fresh fish is also present in the appetizer menu, especially in the Hawaiian Ahi Nachos. Pieces of crispy lavosh are adorned with generous heaps of poke tuna and drizzled with a slightly spicy wasabi aioli. These bites are amazing on their own, but Twisted Cork invites you to add some sweetness and creaminess with a mango salsa and avocado slices, respectively.

The Nova cold-smoked salmon plays a strong role in the Scallion Pancake, which is the perfect mashup of bagels & lox and a flapjack. With a flaky exterior and a chewy middle, the pancakes are brilliant on their own, but the salmon, capers, and creme fraiche make this a must-order appetizer.

As focused as Twisted Cork is on its seafood offerings, it highlights the land well, too. And no item speaks to this better than the Cork Burger.

One bite is all it takes to realize this is not a run-of-the-mill burger. The patty, a massive mix of pork shoulder and beef, is seasoned with paprika and fennel. Oddly enough, the addition of pork makes it taste a bit like a sausage or bratwurst, with a bit more earthiness than the typical beef patty. A thin layer of white cheddar melts over and completely envelops the burger like an amoeba, adding gooey flavor.

The butter bun is hearty, which is necessary, because this is one of the juicier burgers I’ve had. And the slaw underneath adds a nice crunch and some acidity.

This is an excellent burger, but I found myself wanting just a bit more from it. I think a sauce—a mustard, BBQ sauce, or “house sauce”—would’ve really put it over the top. The menu promises a mustard, but it’s incredibly subtle.

Twisted Cork has an extensive wine list, not to mention the many local beers and those tapped from the Pacific. From the cocktail menu, the Auld Fashioned stands out. With whiskey, bitters, and sugar, this drink starts out like so many old fashioneds do. But the addition of orange adds a strong citrus note that sets it apart from the classic cocktail.

Twisted Cork Bistro underwent a total revamp during the COVID-19 pandemic, closing for more than two years. While it was greatly missed, the wait was worth it; the small, skinny restaurant has been transformed into a warm, well-lit dining space with a full-scale bar, multiple seating areas, and a spacious, welcoming dining area.

The Aulds ushered in a higher level of seafood when they opened Twisted Cork Bistro, and the quality of fish has remained steadily spectacular. So while it may seem impossible to delight in fresh-tasting fish in Nebraska, Twisted Cork is happy to defy your expectations.