ZAYTUNA

Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★★

Mediterranean Cuisine

Perfect For: Casual Dining; Lunch; Takeout

Standout Dishes: Gyro; Chicken Shawarma; Falafel

As recently as early 2023, Zaytuna was one of those “if you know, you know” concepts. Then just a food truck, Zaytuna drew rave reviews from people who’d visited it, but that number was relatively low.

So when brothers and Syrian natives Mahmod and Ahmad Al-Ramadan got the opportunity to move into a stall in the Inner Rail Food Hall, they jumped at it. And now this incredible Mediterranean food, which used to only be available for dinner in downtown Omaha, was given its rightful place to shine so the rest of the city could experience it.

The Al-Ramadan family moved to the United States from Syria in 2016, and now they’re bringing the unique flavors of their homeland to Omaha.

The truck limited what they could serve to some extent, but the Inner Rail has allowed them to expand the menu, adding platters, soups, salads, and Turkish teas and coffees.

But even without the new additions, Zaytuna’s menu was one of the best ways to experience Middle Eastern food in Omaha. Chicken shawarma, gyro meat, kafta, and falafel can all be ordered inside a sandwich or atop a bowl of fluffy rice.

The Gyro is among the best in Omaha, as Zaytuna takes full advantage of gyro meat’s unique cooking process. A giant cone of lamb is hoisted onto a vertical spit, which spins slowly to roast evenly on all sides. The meat is sliced off the spit then finished on the flattop, giving the lamb a brilliant crispy texture and wonderful charred flavor. I haven’t found another restaurant that achieves this grilled taste on gyro meat.

The creamy tzatziki helps offset the saltiness of the meat, and sumac adds a welcome sharp tartness. Toss it all in a griddled, soft pita and you have a near perfect gyro.

And I promise you won’t leave hungry. You have to eat a significant portion of meat off the sandwich before you have any hope of picking it up and consuming it in its intended fashion.

Not to be outdone, however, is the Chicken Shawarma. A popular Middle Eastern street food, shawarma is commonly cooked on a vertical spit, similar to gyro meat. Zaytuna takes a different approach, opting for slices of marinated chicken that pop with flavor.

The chicken is moist and juicy, and with interesting spices like coriander, paprika, cumin, and cardamom, it’s plenty flavorful on its own. But Zaytuna rolls that pleasant poultry with pickles and lettuce in a hearty tortilla. The tortilla is grilled, giving it a crispy, golden-brown exterior, before being cut into six pieces. But the kicker is the deliciously zippy garlic sauce, which adds moisture and gives a punch of salty goodness.

If you prefer that same brilliantly crispy meat with rice, go with the Chicken Special. This plate loads a heap of protein onto a bed of floral, buttery saffron rice and layers on that same garlicky sauce. It’s one of the most flavorful rice dishes you’ll find in the city.

My only disappointment with these sandwiches were the accompanying fries, which were crunchy but underseasoned and a bit bland. But the good news is, there’s a host of interesting side dishes to tackle instead of the potatoes.

The Hummus is creamy with a buttery flavor and nutty hints. Lemon juice brings a slight tartness, and the pool of olive oil adds a rich, fatty component to tie it all together. The Baba Ganoush looks similar, but possesses a completely different flavor profile. With an eggplant base (as opposed to the hummus’ chickpeas), it’s a bit chunky, but the flavor is great. It’s slightly smoky, but not enough to overwhelm the delightful tahini, lemon juice, and salt.

The Falafel can be ordered in a sandwich, but these crunchy orbs are fantastic on their own. A fried puck of spices and ground chickpeas, each ball has a slightly crunchy outside that protects a gorgeous green interior popping with garlic, cumin, mint, and other spices. If there’s a better version of falafel in Omaha, I have yet to find it.

The hummus, baba ganoush, and falafel can all be ordered on their own or as part of the Vegetarian Platter, which allows you to savor a little bit of everything. The standalone side worth trying is the Lentil Soup, a savory, punchy lentil bowl that’s quite thick, creamy, and nutty.

Zaytuna is bringing something unique and needed to the Omaha food scene. To have a family from Syria that’s this passionate and proficient at crafting Mediterranean delicacies is rare, and it should be celebrated.

Gyros, hummus, and falafel are fairly prevalent in Omaha, but few restaurants execute them this at this high of a level. And you’ll be hard-pressed to find many other serving legit baba ganoush, kafta, and chicken shawarma.

The Al-Ramadan brothers made a huge gamble by opening a food truck during the COVID pandemic of 2020, but their food built a dedicated, if small, fan base. And now the rest of the city is getting a taste of how fantastic Mediterranean food can be.