On Wednesday, Jan. 22, Omaha will be exposed to a completely new restaurant experience. Backlot Taphouse combines one rarely seen concept (beer halls) with one completely foreign to most Omaha palates (Detroit-style pizza). The owners invited me in a day early to get a peek at the new Aksarben restaurant (it takes over the old Dudley’s Tavern space) and get introduced to a place I’m particularly excited about.
The Beer
First and foremost, Backlot is a beer hall. It has 29 taps, 18 of which dispense locally-brewed products, including selections from Zipline, Kros Strain, and Kinkaider. The owners worked carefully with these breweries to serve not just their most popular beers, but also those that would pair best with the food.
There are also be several imported beers and national brands on tap, as well as dozens more in bottles and cans. Backlot seeks to make beer approachable to everyone. They don’t want to be snobby about their selection, so they have offerings from all ends of the brewing spectrum. If you don’t know what to order or want to try something new, just ask!
The space is wonderfully constructed, with a pristine bar and gorgeous picnic-style tables (crafted by local company Finn Works) that encourage community and discussion. A bevy of games are available for guests to play as they sip their brews.
The Pizza
So what exactly is Detroit-style pizza?
Back in World War II, factory workers in Detroit would take home the rectangular drip pans that held nuts and bolts and cook pizzas in them (after washing, of course). They quickly discovered that they made tremendous doughy pizzas, and a new style was born.
Detroit-style pizza employs cheese with a higher fat content (Backlot uses a combination of Wisconsin brick and Muenster) that is pressed up the the edges of the pan. The fattier cheese melts better and creates a crispy caramelization at the pizza’s edge, adding both texture and great flavor.
The dough has a higher water content, giving it more chew and great elasticity. After a ride through a high-heat convection over, it becomes almost like a focaccia bread, airy and with plenty of bubbles.
Unlike traditional pizza, the cheese goes first on the crust, then the toppings, then the sauce.
What Does Backlot Serve?
Backlot has 10 pizzas on the menu, including a “mash” pizza that will rotate based on the freshest ingredients at the time and what the owners feel like making (the first will be a Philly cheesesteak pizza). Pizzas will be served in 8×10″ pans, cut into four slices.
Among the offerings:
- Detroit Classic: double pepperoni, classic red sauce
- Taphouse: Grilled chicken, bacon, green onions, beer cheese sauce
- Uptown: prosciutto, arugula, goat cheese, balsamic reduction
- Combo: Italian sausage, peppers, black olives, onions, classic red sauce
The menu also has salads, cheese sticks, amped-up french fries, pretzel bites, and meatballs.
The Story
Mike Barstow grew up in Detroit and dreamt of opening his own pizza joint. Tim Malm is an Omaha native who graduated from UNO and is a veteran in the pizza restaurant business.
Together, their passion and expertise creates the Omaha/Detroit fusion that defines Backlot Taphouse.
The duo became certified Detroit-style pizza makes after taking classes under Shawn Randazzo at the Detroit Style Pizza Company in 2019. They plan on opening a full-service restaurant, Backlot Kitchen and Pizza, in the summer of 2020 in West Omaha.
But then Dudley’s closed, leaving a coveted space available. It was too good a chance for Mike and Tim to pass up. The pair views Backlot Tavern as the “food truck” version of the upcoming Kitchen, a more approachable, low-key version of what’s to come.
If you’re looking for a great local beer, a fun hangout, and a new style of pizza that’s sweeping the nation, check out Backlot Taphouse!