LISA'S RADIAL CAFE
Hoppen Hierarchy:
★★★⭑
District: Midtown
Greasy Spoon Breakfast Diner
Perfect For: Breakfast/Brunch; Casual Dining
Standout Dishes: The Combo; Pancakes
Breakfast and brunch have evolved greatly in recent years. Items like pancakes, omelettes, and eggs Benedict provide a blank canvas for chefs to play with, leading to an influx of avocado toasts, crab cake Benedicts, and breakfast burritos stuffed with corned beef hash and poutine ingredients. There’s nothing wrong with these modern creations, and it’s fun to see chefs innovate and push cuisine forward.
But sometimes there’s nothing more enjoyable than sidling up to the counter and ordering a stick-to-your-ribs breakfast platter: a heaping plate of pancakes, a crispy chicken fried steak, or some perfectly fried hash browns and bacon.
And that’s exactly what Lisa’s Radial Cafe provides.
Lisa’s is the classic greasy spoon diner. The breakfast/lunch menu has all the classics, from plates of eggs and toast to breakfast skillets, biscuits and gravy, and French toast. The craziest this menu gets is Stuffed French Toast and Cinnamon Roll Pancakes. Its mission statement could be: Simple, but done to perfection.
Entering Lisa’s feels like stepping into the past, returning to a simpler time. There’s an old-school counter typically occupied by “regulars”, as well as two smaller dining rooms with brick walls, simple tables, and tasteful artwork and decor. The service is friendly, but not overly speedy; Lisa’s is the type of place you visit to relax and enjoy, not dine and dash.
Rather than feature cutting edge innovation and Instagram-focused dishes, Lisa’s absolutely nails the classics, and there’s no better example of this than The Combo.
It’s hard to concoct a more classic diner dish than this: bacon and eggs served with either pancakes, French toast, or a waffle. There’s no flash or dazzle to hide behind here. Lisa’s just creates an awesome base product and lets that item speak for itself.
That starts with the Pancakes, which are larger than the average human head. They’re delightfully fluffy yet still have heft; they’re the food equivalent of what you’d get if you crossed a cloud and a manhole cover. Two of these massive cakes is enough to sink most appetites.
Flavor-wise, they’re sweet enough on your own that they don’t need syrup. But if you do desire extra sugar, these airy pancakes soak up syrup brilliantly.
The expert cookery carries over to the Hashbrowns. This massive plate of potatoes is crispy at certain points and more tender at others, making each bite unique and varied.
One thing you’ll quickly notice about Lisa’s is that you’ll never leave hungry. The plates here are large, yet every dish nearly spills off the sides.
That includes the Pork Carnitas Skillet, a bed of crispy hashbrowns topped with slow-roasted pork, veggies, and eggs. While carnitas are typically juicy and rich, this version is a bit dry. However, they still carry the tangy, savory flavors carnitas are known for, and the veggies are crisp and fresh. I recommend ordering over easy eggs to top the dish, as the runny yolks bind everything together.
The Steak and Eggs are a bit of a miss. The 6-oz. ribeye is well marbled, but the steak is a bit tough and dry. The savory flavor is still present, but the texture and moistness could be improved.
Whatever you order, you’re going to get incredible bang for your buck. Most plates at Lisa’s are large enough to have their own orbit, yet they cost between $6-10. The value is ridiculous.
If you’re looking for an innovative, new-age take on breakfast, Lisa’s probably isn’t your top choice. But when you crave that filling, delicious plate of flapjacks or eggs that transports you back to your childhood during family breakfast, Lisa’s delivers. This is simple breakfast done extremely well.