GOOD EVANS
Hoppen Hierarchy:★★★
District: Aksarben; Elkhorn
Breakfast Diner w/ updated breakfast classics
Perfect For: Breakfast/Brunch; Lunch; Casual Dining
Standout Dishes: Pop Tart; Nebraska Bene; Buttermilk Pancakes
Perusing Good Evans‘ menu is kind of like a treasure hunt for a food nerd. You’ll find all the classic breakfast dishes, but most have one or two elevated tweaks that make them stand out. Finding and trying them out is fun.
Eggs Benedict with andouille sausage and shrimp? A sweet potato pancake with candied pecans and a caramel sauce? An omelet topped with sausage gravy?
These fun spins on breakfast fare, in addition to a dedication to offering standard brunch dishes, absolutely makes Good Evans a spot worth checking out. If the execution of every dish were just a little bit tighter, this could be an elite brunch option.
The brand opened its first location in Kearney in 2019 and has since expanded to have locations in Lincoln, Elkhorn, and Omaha. The latter sits just off 75th and Pacific and presents a beautiful, spacious dining area to enjoy a casual brunch. It’s well lit and features several different seating options, including cozy booths, a bar to sidle up to, or seats underneath its giant vegetation-covered wall. There’s a good amount of seating, but it can quickly fill up during peak brunch hours, especially on the weekends, so plan accordingly.
There’s no shortage of menu options, as Good Evans offers pancakes, shrimp & grits, a breakfast pot pie, biscuits and gravy, omelets, and 5 versions of Eggs Benedict. If there’s a breakfast dish you desire, there’s a great chance Good Evans offers it.
If you want to keep things simple, go for the Classic, with two eggs cooked your way, hash browns, a pancake, and a choice of protein. The Buttermilk Pancake is everything you want; it’s enormous, eclipsing an entire plate, and perfectly fluffy with the right amount of sweetness. Its porous enough to dutifully soak up syrup.
The egg cookery can be hit or miss at Good Evans. On one visit, two over medium eggs were cooked to perfection, with hard whites and runny yolks. That richness paired well with the saltiness of the bacon.
On that same visit, however, the poached eggs on the Nebraska Bene were cooked completely differently. One was perfectly willing to spill its creamy insides all over the dish. The other was overcooked and had more of a jammy consistency; it still tasted great, but the difference was puzzling.
But even with the inconsistent cooking, the Nebraska Bene is a must try dish. This play on Eggs Benedict employs tender cubes of succulent short rib and a tangy cream cheese spread. The hollandaise supplies the expected rich, buttery flavor, but roasted tomatoes and a drizzle of balsamic bring an unexpected sweetness. That sugar balances perfectly with the savory meat and creamy sauce, and the buttered, toasted English muffins are happy to sop up every last ounce of juices. It’s a great dish.
Another hit is Good Evans’ homemade Pop Tarts, offered in several fruit varieties as well as brown sugar cinnamon. These homemade confections, with a buttery, flaky crust, will make you swear off Kellogg’s version forever. The crust has a delightful melt-in-your-mouth quality, and the jam inside has no artificial taste whatsoever, but carries the sweet-tart balance of fresh berries. The frosting added just the right amount of sweetness.
Good Evans’ take on omelets are fun, as all 4 options have very distinct flavor profiles. The Southern Omelet brings to play smoky roasted pork, jalapenos, and roasted onions and smothers the whole thing in a bold, zesty pork green chili. The flavors are great and well-balanced, but again, the execution of the cookery can vary based on visit. On one visit, the omelet was overcooked, as the eggs became a bit dense and chewy. It was still a delicious dish, but nailing the cook on the eggs would’ve taken it over the top.
Similarly, the Hash Browns could use some editing. They lack great crisp and are underseasoned; they’re a great vehicle for sopping up egg yolk or hollandaise, but on their own they’re relatively bland.
All in all, Good Evans is an important player in the Omaha breakfast scene. Whether you want really traditional AM offerings or desire plates with a unique spin, Good Evans has something for you. And the Pop Tarts are worth a visit on their own.
A little more focus on execution would take this restaurant to the next level, but it’s still definitely worth adding to your brunch list.