From the desk of Dan Hoppen
Dear Omaha,
I was recently offered what seemed to be my dream job. It appeared to perfectly match my skill set and passions, but it would’ve required a move to Kansas City. After much prayer and discussion with my wife, I turned the job down.
A lot of factors went into this decision, and it was very tough to pass on this opportunity. But I felt an odd peace once the call was made.
That’s because I’m in love with you, Omaha. For a lot of reasons… but mostly your food.
Nebraska has earned its nickname, the Beef State, and you certainly deliver on that front. In an ever-evolving burger world, few cities deliver the whole spectrum.
But you do, Omaha. You features burgers worthy of song, such as those at Dario’s Brasserie and V. Mertz. You have historic dives like Dinker’s and Stella’s with deliciously simple patties.
You have restaurants like j Coco, Nite Owl, and Charred Burger + Bar that are committed to serving patties with Wagyu beef. And you even have a vegan restaurant, Modern Love, that makes a tastier “burger” than many burger restaurants.
But you’re so much more than beef, Omaha. You have a vast, incredible pizza scene, from deep dish to New York style and everything in between. Piezon’s Pizzeria and Virtuoso Pizzeria give native New Yorkers an authentic taste of home, and Dante briefly transported my wife back to her time traveling abroad in Italy. And speaking of Sarah, our love was forged during our first dinner date at Pitch Pizzeria, where she was so entranced by delicious pie that she didn’t register my awkward attempts at conversation and agreed on another date.
You have a growing BBQ culture, with awesome places like Porky Butts BBQ and Smoking Barrel introducing your citizens to what upper-echelon BBQ tastes like. You even have a surprising number of legit seafood and gyro restaurants, which seems odd for a city in the middle of America. But I’m not complaining.
And that’s just the tip of the iceberg! Who would think you could get authentic Latin American food within your borders? And yet The Hunger Block exists.
You also have elevated European cuisine (Au Courant), legit Cajun food (Herbe Sainte & A Taste of New Orleans), and awesome Indian fare (Kinaara).
I almost want to tell you to stop because at some point, you’re just showing off. But I’m too busy shoving forkfuls into my mouth to do so.
It’s not just me that has eyes for you, Omaha. Some of the nation’s best chefs have chosen to take up residence here, eschewing higher profile cities. Yoshitomo‘s David Utterback is talented enough to cook anywhere in America, yet he chose to serve his transportive sushi in Omaha. Same goes for Paul Kulik of Le Buillon and Via Farina, Tim Nicholson of The Boiler Room, and Anthony Kueper at Dolce.
Heck, you convinced a Bosnian chef to move here and open a French Bistro (Dario’s Brasserie)! Does your witchcraft know no end?
I don’t know how you did it, Omaha, but you’ve managed to create a cult that not only attracts great chefs, but keeps the great ones you create here. Sucked in by your orbit, they can’t escape. Nick Strawhecker (Dante), Paul Urban (Block 16), and Ben Maides (Au Courant) are among the many incredibly talented chefs that have cooked in other cities and countries, yet they return to Omaha.
Much of that credit is due to the amazing culinary program at Metro Community College, which not only trained many of those fine chefs, but convinced them that Omaha is home, not a stepping stone to greener pastures.
Sometimes I just want to tell you off, Omaha. I see another chain restaurant open or the drive-thru line stretch around a McDonalds, and I think my crush is broken.
Then I discover the near perfect casual eatery Kitchen Table, run almost solely off local products by an amazing husband/wife team. And Piero Cotrina and Wendy Delgado realize their dream by opening WD Cravings. And a couple of guys quit their secure jobs to open their own place and starting serving some of the crunchiest, juiciest fried chicken I’ve tasted (Dirty Birds).
And just like that, I’m sucked right back in. I just can’t quit you, Omaha.
I could go on and on about why I love you, Omaha. There are so many tremendous restaurants and chefs in this city that I didn’t get a chance to mention, but they’re more than deserving of recognition.
But to keep this letter (relatively brief), your brilliance can really all be summed up with one restaurant: Block 16.
Block 16 takes all the components that make you great and ties them up in one neat package. Creative chefs that put thought into every dish. A welcoming, homey atmosphere. A wide-ranging menu where familiar flavors are welcome and new ones are discovered. An embrace of locally-sourced, fresh ingredients. A social media presence that interacts with and treasures its loyal fanbase.
See, Omaha, any city in America would be blessed to have any of the restaurants in this letter, and you somehow have gathered them all to you. From fine dining to dives, tasting menus to chicken wings, and steakhouses to food trucks, you truly have it all.
And that, Omaha, is why I love you. Never change.
With love,
Dan
Agree! You have gift for the written word. Well done! Bon Appetit
Try Kathmandu Momo Station 3924 ½, Farnam St, Omaha, NE 68131 Nepalese food.
I have, and I really like it! https://restauranthoppen.com/kathmandu-momo-station/
It was a pleasure meeting you both with John and Nicole the other evening. ? to many more enjoyable plates.
Bon appetit!
Agreed! Thank you for a wonderful meal!
My wife, Karen, and I have enjoyed the culinary talents of Michelin starred restaurants from Europe and all three coasts…but coming home to Omaha’s great food scene reminds us that we are blessed with the culinary talent and diversity of cuisine few cities can boast.
WE TOO share your enthusiasm for Omaha’s fabulous culinary establishments…LOVE OMAHA
Wonderful article, Dan! You’ve mentioned many of my favorites and some I’ve yet to try. Thanks for your insight, much food for thought!